Roadranger questions

Good progress, I reckon you dropped a 3/16 socket or ring spanner and it is sitting n the WY, you won't find it though. As to the oil, I was advised here and elsewhere to stick to mineral oil and the ACCO and chamberlain both use the same sae 50 engine hydraulics and box also on advice from my oil warehouse man in Bendigo. You could ring him, see what his book says.

All the Oil & Fuel Companies websites have an Lube finder/recommendation section... see what they say...

We always used DD50.. Shell I think in new or rebuolt boxes... Just a straight 50 grade... Then later in the life of the box just put 80/90 in it

. Many moons ago, i remember..........(i think )........
If you pulled a Roadranger apart and the inside of the case was an original red color
you would say ,ahaa,........... they have been using straight mineral oil , thats good........
Otherwise the insides would be black ., indicating that a non straight
mineral oil (multigrade ) had been used............
....................Billy....................

if the truck is likley to be unused for periods of time,I much prefer the DD50 engine oil.....the reason being the detergent in it will emulsify condensation,so it can be driained ........never use any EP (stinky) gear oil in anything thats going to sit around,you will get very bad corrosion above the oil ....in fact it seems to preferentially attack gear teeth.

Well the next development in this saga happened when I hooked up the clutch linkage after getting the gearbox installed. After much adjusting I couldn't get the clutch to disengage. Opening the inspection plate in the bell housing showed me that the thrust bearing was coming up against the pressure plate tines but no further. After further inspection I realised the leaver, although curved to fi around it, was coming up against the gearbox mounting point. See picture below


Further investigation shows that when I was measuring where the holes should go to take the repositioned shaft for the clutch lever, I should've taken my measurements from the bell housing on the old box, not the top shaft position on the new one. It looks like the shaft is about 5mm further back than it should be.

Question 1 - Would 5mm make that much difference? If it's just touching the tines when fully extended now, an extra 5mm doesn't seem like enough to fully disengage the clutch.
Question 2 - What's the best way to fix this: a) patch up the holes and re-drill in the correct position; b) look for a fatter thrust bearing that would project further along the shaft; c) remake the lever so that it's got a bit more travel before coming up against the gearbox mount.

Oh, t6he 11th Commandment: "Thou shalt not depart from standard".

But then again, we all have to make changes when playing with old stuff. (including wives). But if you think the problem is only 5mm, think about installing a 5-6mm spacer behind the thrust race.

The throwout levers seem to me to be sitting very low in the pressureplate......the position can be adjusted with the big nuts seen..............what we have here is typical of what happens in a Louisville when the original 13" clutch is replaced with a 14".....all sorts of problems with parts fouling ......the Lipe pressure plate can have either long or short levers ......sometimes the long levers will foul the bearing support sleeve.....and even break it off if enough force is applied.........but use the short levers to clear the sleeve ,and the throwout bearing may jam in the throwout levers on full push ,and then refuse to come back........custom installation is simple ........the second time!

Thats a big gap to bridge between the thrust bearing and clutch fingers. I don't think that 5mm would change much.
As an experiment I would make up a spacer that goes close to filling that gap but not completely, cut it lengthways and put it in front of the bearing and hold it in place with zip ties and get someone to press the clutch pedal slowly as you watch what happens. This is not the fix but will direct you towards one.

Simplest cure would be cutting a new keyway in the lever .,provided it comes off without moving the box.