Roadranger questions

Ok scout two things....
1. Could you make a set of rails out of angle iron flats facing inward that the trolley will roll along? Or are wheels too small.
2. Do I need to try Midlands for a new bearing? And Will that bearing come out of the carrier?


Had a thought.... your truck is not very long so you need to go back a bit then sideways to get out.... complicated railway engineering required or go Jacks for the truck.

IH,

are you still looking for the clutch release part?

I have a relative who is a retired Roadranger rebuilder and he says he has what you are looking for but just needs to find it in his workshop which might take some effort.

Terry

Thanks for your tips guys. Making up some rails out of angle iron might do the trick keeping my wiggly jack straight. Terry I’m waiting to hear back from Cowra truck wreckers, but if they don’t come through I’ll PM you. Sarge the carrier you sent me is the right length but wrong diameter. Might be enough meat in it to bore it our to the right diameter if I can’t find anything else.

I thought I'd give you an update on this long running project to stick an RTO6613 behind a Cummins 160 in my D-line. With the help of Cowra truck wreckers I got my hands on the correct thrust bearing carrier to make the clutch disengage properly, then after many many hours lying under the truck practicing swear words in 7 different languages, I got the gearbox back in and bolted up into the frame and clutch linkages all connected up. I'm now getting all the airlines plumbed in to operate the two range rangers and the gear brake.

A little bit of distraction has been wether or not to use the big round gear knob that goes with the 13 speed HRs of that era. The gear stick that was in the truck when I bought it had been extended and I nice acrylic resin handgrip added. It's a nice stick to use, and if I take it off and put the RR knob in its place it sits a little low.



So I'm thinking about this composite option I've mocked where the RR knob is mounted further down the stick within finger tip reach to allow the operation go the range change switch on the side, but the original gear stick handle is what is still there for the cog swapping part. What say you about this idea?

Didja know the whole gearstick /shift top socket assy is interchangeable between the IH big Fuller boxes and R/Rs...............which kinda makes sense............I used to buy new 8speed flat tops off one of the cheap parts places ,maybe Gleasons,and simply drill and tap the body for a third airline .........the replacement knobs with the two levers ,I could not figure out .......they are certainly not a direct swapover for the flat knob.

Found reaching for short gear stick in these tiresome. Would an extension the length of that cat tail be neater?

I reckon i'd try extending the stick and using the round knob. I think that might end up more user friendly.

Brett.

would one of these help..??

truckerstoystore.com.au/shop/universal/g...tension-100mm-black/

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In my opinion that composite option would be a P.I.T.A...

ScoutMan
gudday n8
not forgettin that the fuuller roadrangers were designed for LHD and the splitter was right hand thumb friendly
we soon learnt to use many Left finngers to do the splits etc
but then with the mack splitter they went oposit with the controls
so we moved/rotated the control to be more user friendly
the early SPicer 12 speed boxes had a heavy steel splitter and range change with boudin cables to the GBox lid
quite offen we broke the thread on the top of the GStik thru the weight of all the weight of the top bounin around
Guessing it may be best to design your GStik extension on the HD side

cya

.
About the two range changer bizzos...........

Many moons ago i set that up for a bloke that wanted to get rid of the standard 13 speed knob........
So one ordinary range changer controlled the range shift ( as per the old 15 speeder)..............
The other range changer (mounted further up the stick) controlled the splitter ..........
The only problem was , the hoses on the range cylinder had to be reversed (needing longer hoses )....
as up was low ...and down was high range .......so reversing them fixed that ....It could
not be done by changing the.air lines on the knobs......... Reason being , the controll air
through the controll valve was reversed .........(All as i recall )
The splitter button was down for the low split and up for the high split..........

As i recall this was what he wanted so he could have the long handle instead of the 13 speed bizzo. ..........

Now if you are replacing 2 range change buttons with the standard 13 speed knob....(is that what is happening????)
you MAY find the range change is opposite ,,,, you May have to swap the hoses at the range change cylinder
that come from the controll valve to said cylinder...........
Bearing in mind i am only guessing by your description.............

......................Billy....................