International AB130

mate shouldnt need to prime the pump it will or should prime it self might have a crook diaphram lots will tell you to replace the pump with an electric pump I dont reckon there as reliable did you try to blow back into the tank to make sure its clear ? or maybe just pull the pump apart to see if somethings perished
Paul

Anthony, like Paul said, try to blow back into the tank through the fuel line (I use clear plastic tube pushed over the line to blow into). You can also try sucking on this if you can blow through it first. (watch the first mouthful, it tastes awful )Also, If I remember correctly, there is another braided rubber fuel line at the tank outlet (ISTBC). The AS doesn't have it, but the AB does/might since the tank is cab-mouted on those. (I forget, now)

Guys,

all good.. fired her up and drove her into the shed this afternoon.

I cleaned out the pump, squirted fuel down the lines, then i kept feeding fuel into the carbie throat with an old dishwashing bottle until i got pressure in the lines.

considering it hasn't run for more than five minutes in the past 30 years it runs very well.

Guys,

Here is a long winded question for you

The good news is, that isn't the chassis rail. It's part of the nose cone. They all do that. The extent can't really be known until you get it off. Use lots of your preferred, penetrant on the speed nuts behind the headlights - they love to snap in half, leaving the remains spinning. Be patient with those and plan on replacing them. 7/16 spanner IIRC.

The radiator saddle is a double skinned affair - hence the rust. Looks more difficult than it really is. (it's hidden behind the bumper bar, so your repair needen't be concours correct unless it bugs you.

The brake fluid indicates your typical worn/aged master cylinder. A cheap and easy fix, even if you need it sleeved. 1 1/8" bore. I got mine done by BHSS, they are no longer in Albion, they moved to Capalaba (? courier or post anyway). No doubt there are others.

Expect to rebuild the water pump unless it was done. (looks like rebuilt engine?)

How you go on the paintwork is purely up to you. If you like the weathered look, or not. I don't know if isolator goes over 2 pack??? If so, you could use acrylic. I think they were only painted in enamel originally.

Also, what size did those wheel studs end up being? I should have some nuts, but admittedly don't know where. (you saw the mess.....)

Cheers.

Jarrod, cheers for that info. I'll get stuck into it next weekend. It's definitely 2pac paint on the outside.

The engine may have been rebuilt previously - prior to the mid 80s when it was shedded. I am certain the water pump is not working as the bottom hose was cold after driving her in the shed and there is no thermostat in the housing.

Those wheel nuts were too small. No hurry as I have plenty to do in the meantime!!

I pulled the nose cone off to get at that nasty rusty bit... not sure what to do now...



I am guessing I should cut the eaten bit out and Mig in some hand cut sections... any advice appreciated...



another issue is i am going to need to replace the two front light buses as they are cracked. anyone have any tips where to get these... i was going to try RS Components in Archerfield.

Mate, most of the nosecone/radiator saddles I have pulled off are far worse than that, going right up the sides. I would cut out what you need and either get the two (inner and outer) bits folded up so you can weld them in, or cut out a bit more and just put in a C-section to replace both.

I may be able to help you with a terminal strip. I don't chuck anything out if it's any good. I do remember seeing them on the AB150 I wrecked.

cut out the rusty bits... its really not that bad. fist time i ever said that after a dismantle! these red ru trucks were well looked after.

i pulled off the water pump and it looks good to me. the backing plate is possibly OK as well... two pics included... tell me what you think.




another interesting find... i dropped the fuel tank out to get to a rusty bit on the cabin floor... the latter part of the bottom rubber fuel line was toasted. no wonder it was hard to start.

just four little bits of welding to do and it's paint prep time. end of stage one! my target is to drive her to Allora new year.

Anthony, I found one or two of those headlight blocks.

I think we discussed that flexible fuel line on top of the tank ........ (yep, 3/1)
You should be able to fix it same as the other one, using both ends and some new hose with clamps.

That backing plate, while a bit sad, if you think you can seal it; go for it. When available new they were around $150.......

Jarrod.