International AB130

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationJarrod,

yep you did. from what i could see with tank in place that fuel line looked fine. just the section closest to the tank was brittle.

If you are home one afternoon this week i can swing by for those brake bits. I am going to get a neighbour to sort out that hand brake clamp and i'll be finished with your spare.

this bus i found on eBay should be fine:



I would love to know where i can get a new fan belt and radiator hoses to...

Anthony, while that termainal strip would do, you will have to cut all the lugs off your wires. And the ones here are free.....(you just gotta keep a look out for some 110 bits for me )

I'm afraid I have not been able to locate all the handbrake parts. I have the cams and clevis, the rest is still hiding

Jarrod.

Was just quoted $660 to rebuild my radiator. Seems a bit steep. Most of the radiator shops seems to have closed down is Brisbane. anyone know somewhere good a cheap in Brisbania?

Seems OK to me. Mine cost (IIRC) $740. Made one out of two with a new core. Proper old-style core would have added $400.
If your old one's knackered, a new one's worth every cent.
Coming back from Gatton last year (hot as Hades) temp never went above normal.

carmoda would have to agree with asw120 on this and the price dosnt sound to bad to me and it is cheap peice of mind if it is looked after it will last 20 years plus thats only $33/year pretty good value I would have thought seeya

Paul

Found a local guy who services tanks and radiators for the local fleet trucks. I shall report back on quality and price.

On a separate note: I drove up to Prices at Dalby on Thursday.. was a little disappointing in the respect there wasn't much left on any of the donor models of inter i can use.. however.. i did find an original air cleaner in restorable condition. I am going to look for a donor truck to part out i have decided.

on a second note: I have to address two areas of rust in my cabin. one above the drivers door, one immediately below on the cabin floor next to the seat mount.

I have included two photos below. advice on approach appreciated. I was planning on getting a local specialist wielder to have a look...

Handbrake, I have seen them self energise and twist a tailshaft off in motion, as well as being useless when you're pointed up hill.

What I did was split the universal joint off the trans (in my case a joey box) then install a 300mm brake rotor from the rear of a Toyota Soarer, they're 17mm wide & available from the import wreckers.

Grab this with a mechanical trailer brake caliper.

Fabrication of a bracket was fairly easy, using some heavy plates & a decent welder.

Next get an over center handle from a Dodge? Inter? that will bolt up to the drivers side kick panel and route the cable out through the floor & inside the chassis rail.
Simply put a hook through the chassis rail where the cable has to turn 90deg & then thread it through the caliper and clamp it back onto itself;)

Easy to adjust, works well, not suceptible to the few crude teeth on the inter handle, useful in an emergency, out of the way & best of all it's tweakable in the cab so you can dial up some more grab on a steep hill.

I call it modifying back to standard;)

Cheers