Fill's Bedford

Well done Fill, you are doing a marvellous job!

I am about to cut gaskets to go either side of my headlights and sidelights, using the dividers and Stanley blade trick you posted a while ago!

Morris.

Hi all
How did you go Morris?
I have been doing a little , as Scratcher said it is like eating an elephant (one bit at a time). I am stripping out the cabin (glove box, instrument panel, door handle, all the glass, wiring loom labelled and so on )
I made up a steering wheel puller. I put it on and went to remove it like the book said I put a fair bit of pressure on the bolts that went into the aluminium boss and did not want to put any more pressure on them. I rang a friend and he said to keep the pressure on the bolts and hit the bigger bolt. I did and off it came. Happy Fill

100_3057 by fill quinn , on Flickr

100_3059 by fill quinn , on Flickr

100_3058 by fill quinn , on Flickr

Hey Fill,
Quick question for you. What sort or engine mounts (rear) are you using on the Beddy?
Mate gave me a few old crossmembers and mounts out of his stock, I got hold of one brand new front engine mount, from Ed at Dubbo, sits in a pocket welded to the front channel (this is adapting it into a Karrier), will do the job with minor modification.
The crossmember he has given me is we think, off a TK Beddy, massive big thing, looks like it may have been bolted to the TOP of the chassis. I pulled it apart and can use the solid cast piece with the rubber bushes in it, bolted that to a solid piece of 6mm plate, at the moment just sitting on top of the chassis, using a bit of rectangular 50mm X 50mm square tube until I work out angles and distances etc.
Not familiar with how Bedford rear mounts are set up, those that have the front engine mount going transverse across the chassis, do they have rear mounts swung off the bellhousing itself? or are they the same principle as common Holden/Ford type setup where you have a single crossmember at the transmission extension housing with a "sandwich" type mount held in with two bolts?
I'm in the process or installing a Dodge type NP435 in the chassis, may be easier to try and locate a Dodge (or Ford) type rear crossmember.
Probably a bit of overkill, trying to install bolt in type mods instead of fabricating crossmembers from scratch
Dave_64

Hi Dave
I put up two photos on your soda blaster post I hope this helps
Cheers Fill

Fill wrote: Hi all
How did you go Morris?
I have been doing a little , as Scratcher said it is like eating an elephant (one bit at a time). I am stripping out the cabin (glove box, instrument panel, door handle, all the glass, wiring loom labelled and so on )
I made up a steering wheel puller. I put it on and went to remove it like the book said I put a fair bit of pressure on the bolts that went into the aluminium boss and did not want to put any more pressure on them. I rang a friend and he said to keep the pressure on the bolts and hit the bigger bolt. I did and off it came. Happy Fill

100_3057 by fill quinn , on Flickr

100_3059 by fill quinn , on Flickr

100_3058 by fill quinn , on Flickr

Or you can do it the old way, both feet on the dashboard, knees under the steering wheel, take the nut off, remove the spring washer, screw the nut back on flush with the tube ,hit with a few solid blows while exerting upward pressure with your knees, and hey presto, bobs your uncle and steering wheel off. Always works for me.

Hi all
Been doing a bit late at night ( The Christmas rush is well on at work ) Sorry I have not been on the computer
This is what I have been up to. There was a big dint on the passenger door the door had an access panel I made it bigger, and fitted a speaker. For the panel beater

100_3074 by fill quinn , on Flickr

100_3072 by fill quinn , on Flickr

100_3073 by fill quinn , on Flickr

I made up some rubber gaskets for the door handles

100_3077 by fill quinn , on Flickr

I was at the welder and I said I will have to make a gantry like that. He said he has not used it for years you can have it
If any remembers when I took the cad off it looked a bit hairy. This should do the job . WIN WIN

100_3080 by fill quinn , on Flickr

These bits of rubber are to keep the bonet centred.To buy them they cost about 25 pound for four plus postage.
I bought two wheel chocks the point was a perfect mach ( and I still have two chocks ) WIN WIN

100_3081 by fill quinn , on Flickr

100_3083 by fill quinn , on Flickr

This is a landing rubber for the bonnet. ( Made out of a rubber ocky strap )

100_3084 by fill quinn , on Flickr