Fill's Bedford

Lookn good Fill
Wont B long B 4 U n the bride will B roll n into the HCVC Meetingz
cya
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Hi John
Thanks for the interest. I here were you are coming from. Back in September I mentioned sand blasting. One member said to look into soda blasting. I did only on the net, it seems to be a bit dearer, cooler but it is hard to see if it cleans out rust as well from my research.
Sand blasting, as you said, seams to depends on the skill of the operator. (I have heard some horrible stories too )I have faith in the panel beater but he is very concerned about this also he has no contacts as far as blasting. Another reason that bonnets distort is the bracing under it will not let it expand
For us at the moment, he has spoken to a few blasters ( blasters which use different media but not soda )He is going by there pictures on there web site, and talking to them on the phone. Not a foolproof way, we both like a recommendations. I would like a lot of discussion on this one.
Cheers Fill

Thanks 180wannabe
I was Typing when you posted- you have started the discussion all ready. For the others they might like to go back to previous page last post.Thanks again
Cheers Fill

I find sandblasting great for nooks and crannies, while using other methods to do the large surfaces.
Beware of sand trapped in crevices, etc. A friend had a Stude Cruiser with a rotted out plenum chamber due to being full of sandblasting grit years after the car was restored.

Another fan of your posts here.

Jarrod.

Fill, if you can find any pics or youtube videos of truck restorations that forum member "V8 Inter Nut" has done, i think he has stripped most, if not all of his cabs and panels with poly strip discs. He had quite a few pics on here at the time, and i recall some discussion about the strip discs, and he has some videos on youtube, but if i could find them i'm afraid i still don't know how to put a link up for you to see them. Best i can suggest is to go fair way back in the restoration topic section. I will post a heading or something here for you if i find what i'm talking about.
After seeing his work i bought and used some poly strip discs to clean up some workshop machines i was painting. They are also great for finding/showing up engine and chassis numbers as they clean really well, you can push on them to get into grooves, and they don't remove any steel.
Sorry i can't be more specific. Brett.

17 years ago I had my '65 Mustang blasted (garnet) and they did a fantastic job. No distortion issues and my panel beater was very happy. The car still looks just as good 17 years later. I found the business card and it was Brian Guille from Thomastown Sandblasting who did it. I remember that he took the time to explain that he wouldn't blast some areas as it would cause problems.

Fill,
Some years ago my friend and HCVC member until he passed away in a motor vehicle accident, restored a Thornycroft Nubian Airport Crash tender with a large aluminium body. Another friend and I spent a few days using paintstripper to remove all the paint from the body, as the owner had a mate who was a good spraypainter. After all our effort, the painter talked the owner into sandblasting it. I begged him not to, as I expected the panels to buckle.

Despite my pleas, the painter was allowed to blast it and the result was that EVERY panel was caved in. The only good point was that the paint job was very good but the effect was spoiled by the buckled panels. (I can give you the name of the owner and the painter/blaster if you wish)

Don't blast it, there is no need. Use paint stripper and if you need to, do bad patches with a polly strip disc as 180wannabe says.

If you have your heart set on sandblasting, use Brian Guille, as Oilman recommends.

Morris.

Fill, a bit more info for you to digest.
One bloke i asked said sandblasting door jambs, window openings and wheelarches is ok, just keep away from any flat panel areas.
Another said (and i saw) he has had lots of vintage car panels sandblasted, some 80 or more years old with very rusty bottom edges. I thought there would be nothing left of some, but it seems his particular sandblaster man knows his job and knows his machine and uses the correct medium at a reduced pressure. The rusty areas came back looking like lace curtains, but he had removed all of the rust and left the panel intact and in shape, to either repair or use as a pattern.
Brett.

sandblasting with a small nozzle wont cause any problems...its the big industrial setups that have the potential for disaster............the reason being the power being handled.......a worn 3/8 nozzle will pass about 350cfm of air,this represents about 100hp.......now you concentrate 100hp into a patch the size of your hand.........we had 3 compressors going .about 400KW,or say 1000hp to produce 4000cfm to the blast rooms.I used to spend half my time welding in patches and repairing wear.........now with industrial blasting,all you need to do is cut the nozzle pressure to 40psi,and adjust the grit flow,and keep the contact area moving and there will be no heating at all,and no problem......Im actually in two minds about blasting........but its surely a pain to see the little rust "spiders" coming under your paint after about a year...........the other problem is removal of the original surface prep.........pickling,phosphating,chromate primer etc.........this isnt a problem so much for you,but twenty years time,your paintjob will end in terminal rust.

The crowd I worked were a funny mob......the two owners were vintage car and bike restorers,and collectors...........but when Col wanted his own stuff blasted,he did it himself........funny when they sold the yard part of the business,he took a load of very nice model T panels down to his son at the refinery,where the son was still operating the outside contracts from,and the stuff wasnt done,laid around and got stolen.Talk about poetic justice.