Fill's Bedford

These are the posts which help someone past a stumbling block.

I think you can actually buy the rivets from Rare Spares (for Holdens), but here's another way.

The same can also be done by putting a normal drill in a vise. Additionally, this method works a treat on power window motors for cleaning the commutator. Any small enough armature could also be done.

Keep it coming, Fill!

Jarrod.

Hi all
The three stages.so far. Sand blasted. Sanded . Primed.
Fill happy

100_3138 by fill quinn , on Flickr

28340222_2006672162990120_187808173_o (1) by fill quinn , on Flickr

28312474_2006672129656790_1556530237_o by fill quinn , on Flickr

Doing a great job, Fill. Keep the progressive photos coming for us non-face-ache viewers.
Dave

Thanks Dave
Scratcha thanks for your offer. I came close to getting you around today, After I got the tray on it would have been nice to have a beer with someone, ( you are always welcome )

100_3161 by fill quinn , on Flickr

100_3163 by fill quinn , on Flickr

Yes it would have been nice to have two chain blocks

100_3165 by fill quinn , on Flickr
Beer time. Cheers Fill

100_3166 by fill quinn , on Flickr

Note there is a tag on the straps ( Not for lifting ) The straps are rated at 2.5 ton each and the tray would only be a ton max.
Not going by the book, but it is done. At no stage was I under it. So maybe do not do what I did . Cheers Fill

Fill wrote: Note there is a tag on the straps ( Not for lifting ) The straps are rated at 2.5 ton each and the tray would only be a ton max.
Not going by the book, but it is done. At no stage was I under it. So maybe do not do what I did . Cheers Fill

Tis all good Fill

These labels are for suggestions only and I won't tell if you don't lol



Paul

Fill, you weren't really lifting. You were holding down the ring and shackle to stop the chain block lifting it off the tray.
Steve.

Thanks Mrsmackpaul and Wee- Allis That is a great way at looking at it, thanks. I am doing things a bit out of order. The tray has to come off again,to put the cabin on. ( because it has to be put on from the back, the back board is to high to get over ).I have put it on because I wanted to fit the mudguards and toe bar. I have seen a few new and old tray trucks with round guards and they highlight the wheels, which I like. But I do not think I can. I knew that there might be a problem with the original joist set out, on the tray, because they are not centred, on the back wheels.

100_3193 by fill quinn , on Flickr

Fill, if you don't go with round guards, i'm sure i have seen the standard type flat steel guards of that era mounted from the front edge of each summer before, rather than the front of the front summer and back of the rear summer (or vice-versa), just so that the guards are centred over the wheel more evenly. It might not look quite as neat from an engineering point of view as guards mounted front and rear (or vice-versa) on the summers, but perhaps end up more pleasing overall to have the wheel centred in the guard.
I haven't really explained that very well, i hope you get my drift.
I have found modern plastic guards too big for most old stuff. At least flat steel with a folded edge are easy and cheap to make, and wouldn't look out of place.
You are doing a great job, i really enjoy your updates. Brett.