Fill's Bedford

Some on here over the years have built big tubs and used molasses and water and let it soak

I was very skeptical about this but have tried it my self and it works just fine and is cheap as chips but takes a few weeks of soaking and washing

Paul

Dunno what the cook will say about the molasses smell in the house though

If she did not complain about spray painting in the loungeroom, she will probably not worry about molasses.

Molasses does work very well but you can see the rust forming as the steel dries! You need to use rust converter as soon as the water has run off and etch prime as soon as the converter is dry enough. The molasses takes a fair bit of washing off inside of panels and other places you cannot get a brush into. Been there, done that. I used it on small parts and tools and gave them a light spray of el-cheapo spray can paint.

Hi all
Thanks for all your feed back. I like to have a lot of information before I make up my mind. I am going to get it blasted, I am going to take it to a company called Blast - N - Peen. The man in charge seems to have a lot of experience .One member said he had a car rust out were sand got in and was not removed. I have gone all over the cabin and filled holes in were sand would get into a void that could not be blown out. (Thanks for that )

100_3105 by fill quinn , on Flickr
Blast-n-peen where involved in a sidchrome promotion
see the link below to view


Sorry not a truck resto but I found it very interesting

100_3106 by fill quinn , on Flickr
Cheers Fill

Hi All,
It is just over twelve months since the brakes went wrong the last time and I chucked it in and sent it all to Adelaide. I have been busy at work and going out of my way not to touch them. I started the other day on them. Before this I replaced as many brass compression joints with steel that I could. The new brake line that I got are made from 80% copper and 20% Zinc which is used by a lot of high quality car manufacturers ( Mercedes Porsche ect ). It is very nice to use as it is soft and flares well. When you bend it and flare it, it goes hard .The steel line that I previously used I would not reach enough pressure on the brass compression joints to seal without stripping the thread. I decided to re anneal the flares. On straight copper this is done by heating it up to a cherry red and then let it slowly cool down. I tested this on some samples and it worked well.
I have done this only on the brass compression joints. Thanks for looking. Cheers Fill
I also put on a few more clips to stop it flexing- I did all this after consulting with a number of people.
So I have replaced the lines and got the front drums on.

100_3112 by fill quinn , on Flickr

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It is starting to look like a barn find with all the dust.Thanks for looking Cheers Fill

100_3108 by fill quinn , on Flickr

Hi all
If you remember I got a yellow gantry. I did some working out and decided it was too small to pick up the cabin. I only had three inches ( 75 mm ) each side I did not think that was enough room, each side to hang a chain block each side with three chain each side. I did not want to damage the cabin getting it on after I have spent a few thousand on the paint job. Being a bit of a tight arse, I got all my scrap metal, and went to the metal recycler and swapped it over for a H beam. The yellow beam had been welded in, so it was very hard to transport and store. I cut the H beam to a length of three meters ( ten foot ) so it would clear a semi trailer.and could flat pack it, because it all bolts together and when I have finished with it, It will be easier to sell. I had to buy six steel plates, some brace material and bolts. I already had the paint. Thanks for looking. Cheers fill

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I am happy to see you are back in the patio Fill, I assume it will be finished in the lounge to you usual exceptional standards. (It will match the coffee table if I remember rightly) :woohoo: