6v53 reassemble

KEEP n THE OIL IN
Eye aint no xpurt
Wot we have dun with the series 71 tin rocker covers
they distort out of shape sum when they bin over tightend
so place RC on flat surface n wak the cnrs down with a log of wood
then use a good silastic and run a generous bead where the gasket sits in RC
then place the RC gasket on top of the Silastic in the RC n place on head
do not do up tight ..... less than firm
tomorrow ....... remove RC .... the gasket should B the correct shape and well n truly stuk to the RC
then place a small skin layer of Silastic to the underside of gasket to seal to head n do up just B 4 'F' tight

with the 71 series with the jake brake spacer it can B more phunn double/truble the seal n area
LOL

There u go
all ovr red rover
dun worry bout the performance of a screemer .......... jist drive it .....az tho U stole it


cya

§

dieseldog wrote: If the thread doesn't strip now, it won't ever.

OK, that's great - exactly what I want. But I'm struggling a bit - if you torque the bolt down, surely if you apply more force downwards (is an, trying to lift the bearing cap off) this will be more likely to pull the bolt out. Or is it only the turning of the thread that causes enough force to strip them?

I have torqued the suspect caps down - three times now! They feel fine - no difference in feel to the good threads up to the click. So do you prefer oil over international compound no 2?

You could always run a bead of weld around the caps once you had torqued them down..
With the projected Detroit reliability its unlikely they will ever need to come off.

Nar
U dun need to run a weld round no screemer
torque it up .......... wot the book sez

Weld is wot tries to keep the Crummins all together



LOL
:lol: :woohoo:

cya

§

You've got it swishy, at least I don't have that to worry about

Chocs wrote: You could always run a bead of weld around the caps once you had torqued them down..
With the projected Detroit reliability its unlikely they will ever need to come off.

dunno about weld, it is cast - maybe braze... Shouldn't matter if I get the crank red hot should it? As you said, it will last forever no matter what so I might as well make it permenant

Had a main bolt break about four threads into the block,on a V71,pulled up a piece of the bearing seat from the block.Maybe it could be fixed,or another block.Either way an expensive repair on a motor no one wants now.

JOHN.K. wrote: Had a main bolt break about four threads into the block,on a V71,pulled up a piece of the bearing seat from the block.Maybe it could be fixed,or another block.Either way an expensive repair on a motor no one wants now.

ow. Did it ruin the crank?

Dont know.I replaced it with another motor,and as its a late(c..1982) motor I saved it.The crank was std,never checked it for bend.Dont think the scrappies will worry.It was running with the broken bolt,just had low oil pressure.You know what they say....Old Detroits never die,they just smell that way.

Wedgey, don't laugh at Chocs. Ol' buddy did a 3-53, torqued everything by the book, ran it a couple weeks, didn't sound right one day. he dropped the pan, found both bolts on number one cap barely snug. Put up a new bearing, red loctite on the bolts, torqued them, back together it went. Two weeks later, same thing (how in hell he could hear the extra clatter beats me). Crank and rod were still good, so up with a new bearing, torqued all dowm, no loctite. He welded the bolts to the cap. The thing ran for twenty more years. Think you could do that to Cummins or a Cat? It's a Detroit, dammit! Run it!

You're definitely making progress.

Dunno wot motor but sum recommend new bolts each time itz dismantled
think n big end or head bolts can't remember

Wedgy we wanna C n hear sum smoke n noise from this critter
Give till it hurtz
cya