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6v53 reassemble
- wedgetail84
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7 years 3 months ago #184493
by wedgetail84
Replied by wedgetail84 on topic 6v53 reassemble
So what's the consensus for sealing these leakers up - I have a full (FP) gasket kit but wondering what compounds to use if any? I was thinking of using a thin film of the red anaerobic Loctite stuff, but on one side or two? Also have Loctite 587 (the blue silicone) but don't think I should need it...
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7 years 3 months ago #184503
by Blackduck59
Replied by Blackduck59 on topic 6v53 reassemble
Permatex #3.
Only used to use some Silicone on the V71's around the rear sandwich plate as they were prone to leaking on 1 corner. 92's had an extra bolt there to improve clamping.
Cheers Steve
Only used to use some Silicone on the V71's around the rear sandwich plate as they were prone to leaking on 1 corner. 92's had an extra bolt there to improve clamping.
Cheers Steve
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- Chocs
7 years 3 months ago #184504
by Chocs
Replied by Chocs on topic 6v53 reassemble
What does the manual say??
Loctite 510 (if thats the bright pink one)
Both sides! Or itll leak out the bare side?
Quick grip on the rocker cover side of the cork gasket, nothing on the head side.
REASON: because youll have it apart every second week. :woohoo:
Loctite 510 (if thats the bright pink one)
Both sides! Or itll leak out the bare side?
Quick grip on the rocker cover side of the cork gasket, nothing on the head side.
REASON: because youll have it apart every second week. :woohoo:
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7 years 3 months ago #184506
by Mrsmackpaul
Your better to die trying than live on your knees begging
Replied by Mrsmackpaul on topic 6v53 reassemble
Detroit manual says smudge smudge and more smudge in my work shop
As you all know Im not real smart but I find I get best results when everything is spotlessly clean and I mean like a mirror clean type of clean
I spend a lot of time cleaning these days and find I only need gasket goo (black gooey stuff) and this wont make a mess and block oil galleries
Paul
As you all know Im not real smart but I find I get best results when everything is spotlessly clean and I mean like a mirror clean type of clean
I spend a lot of time cleaning these days and find I only need gasket goo (black gooey stuff) and this wont make a mess and block oil galleries
Paul
Your better to die trying than live on your knees begging
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7 years 3 months ago #184514
by dieseldog
Replied by dieseldog on topic 6v53 reassemble
I use Loctite 515 on just about anything with a gasket. It wont set outside the joint. Supercheap do it in Permatex brand which is just as good but about half the price.
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- wedgetail84
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7 years 3 months ago - 7 years 3 months ago #184515
by wedgetail84
Replied by wedgetail84 on topic 6v53 reassemble
OK thanks guys, pretty sure it's 515 I have. Does permetex no3 have a loctite equivilent? Manual says to use a non hardening gasket cement - would loctite 515 or 510 fall into that?
I've found something I don't like in my block. Three of the main bearing cap threads are "rough". The threads look like they've been cut with a very blunt tap or something - the peaks are all jagged, no threads missing or stripped just not smoothe like the rest. I noticed them when putting the caps back on and one bolt wouldn't go all the way (gently using a spanner) so I inspected them all.
I ran a die through them and it didn't change the looks, but the one that stopped now goes home fine. I then torqued them up to 130 ftlbs (manual spec) and it felt good. I reckon I've got three options - don't worry, helicoil or use another block. I have an old (really old, 1950s I think) block, but it's NA obviously and mine is a turbo. I'm planning on using the N70s it came with so I reckon these threads are going to get a real work out. I'm sort of leaning on the first two... What are people's thoughts?
I've found something I don't like in my block. Three of the main bearing cap threads are "rough". The threads look like they've been cut with a very blunt tap or something - the peaks are all jagged, no threads missing or stripped just not smoothe like the rest. I noticed them when putting the caps back on and one bolt wouldn't go all the way (gently using a spanner) so I inspected them all.
I ran a die through them and it didn't change the looks, but the one that stopped now goes home fine. I then torqued them up to 130 ftlbs (manual spec) and it felt good. I reckon I've got three options - don't worry, helicoil or use another block. I have an old (really old, 1950s I think) block, but it's NA obviously and mine is a turbo. I'm planning on using the N70s it came with so I reckon these threads are going to get a real work out. I'm sort of leaning on the first two... What are people's thoughts?
Last edit: 7 years 3 months ago by wedgetail84.
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7 years 3 months ago #184516
by Mrsmackpaul
Your better to die trying than live on your knees begging
Replied by Mrsmackpaul on topic 6v53 reassemble
leave it as is it will fine, if it torques up ok it will be fine
Paul
Paul
Your better to die trying than live on your knees begging
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7 years 3 months ago #184517
by Blackduck59
Replied by Blackduck59 on topic 6v53 reassemble
Permtex is a Loctite company, Loctite Aviation Gasket Sealant. The 3 is non hardening
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7 years 3 months ago #184521
by jeffo
Replied by jeffo on topic 6v53 reassemble
I hate bolts in such situations, head bolts, bearing caps and so on, prefer a deeply threaded stud and nut.
Who can remember when such an application might have a stud and castellated nut, all properly tie wired.
When the boost goes way up (with a car) first thing that's replaced is your typical head bolt with ARP studs/nuts.
Who can remember when such an application might have a stud and castellated nut, all properly tie wired.
When the boost goes way up (with a car) first thing that's replaced is your typical head bolt with ARP studs/nuts.
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7 years 3 months ago #184522
by 600Dodge
Replied by 600Dodge on topic 6v53 reassemble
Im with you Jeffo, first thing I do when building an engine these days(unless it is completely stock) is buy a full ARP stud kit, everything is new and accurate and warrantied.
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