6v53 reassemble

Chocs wrote: I think ya finding all the reasons why these gadgets were not still fitted into their respective operating positions

some areas maybe but not the cranks. So far the turbo one and the last one would have had perfect cranks had they not had a bit of water contact the crank during storage

asw120 wrote: If that isn't on the very top of a crankpin, I wouldn't worry about it. Even if it is, it's just something to keep in mind. Oil pressure should keep the bearing shell off this, anyway.

yeah that's what I'm thinking (optimistically?). It's off to the side but is a main not a big end...

bigcam wrote: Mate, unless you want this motor owing you more than what you could buy a decent ute for, I'd just whack a set of rings in it. I've done exactly that to an 8V71 about 8 months ago, and I'm doing it to an 8V92 right now. The 8V71 cost me about $12-1500 to do. The can shafts in it didn't look perfect, but it runs very nicely doesn't blow smoke, and has minimal oil coming out of the air box drains. Before I did the rings, it almost covered the lh fuel tank on a cab over KW with oil out of the exhaust.
Unless you've got a really good reason to have a reco motor, just keep in perspective that it's a hobby.
And another secret too, not that it's too much of a secret, the naturals sound heaps better than the turbo motors.
Give the liners a hone, new rings and big end bearings, and put it back together.

As always love your philosophy bigcam, it gives me heart! It's pretty much how I'm wanting to go, and if I have to replace crank bearings more often than normal it's not the end of the world. It won't have to work for its living anyway...

Bit disturbed by what you say on the sound though - that's the first thing that got me going with GMs! Although, I reckon I could take a bit of a hit on the sound for an extra 120 HP :evil:

Turbo motors always sound crap, you may as well just stick a big baffled muffler on it.
It's only an extra 50 HP, but more torque.
I'd stick with the natural motor if it's a toy.

Next thing you want to check before you buy any parts are the heads. They are renowned for cracking, and they aren't cheap to find second hand if you can.
Clean up around the valve seats really well, get a good light and start looking. They crack between the valves. And they crack if they get hot. So check the heads before you buy any parts for the bottom end.

It looks like it would clean up with a 020 grind at max.I have cleaned up seizure marks with a 040 grind,and it aint anywhere near that bad.As mentioned you dont need 100% surface.Some Fords left the factory with undersized journals.Regards John.

Going back,we repo d a Terex dozer once,the 8/71 had spun a bearing and the desperado running it used to drop the belly plate and replace the shell every night.You dont have nightmares when you have dozers,you live them.Regards John.

bigcam - surely sounding crap is a relative term here... It's got N70s and the PO said was rated at 320HP (I assume 2800rpm). But as I'm reusing the pistons I'm sort of stuck on the turbo route. Wouldn't toning down the muffler help? Heads are one area I'm doing pretty well in - 4 out of 10 are crack free (although some pitting in combustion chambers but as sealing surfaces are good I assume not a big drama?) and 2 hace cracks. The other 4 are still on blocks so not sure.... Not sure whether to run V7L or V7 cams though - do you know which makes a better truck motor with high/old style port liners? Is a non turbo crank ok in a turbo engine?

John that dozer sounds the pits, I'm not sure I could have handled pulling the belly plate and sump every night... Must have cost a bit in oil? Not planning on grinding this latest crank - would only grind if using the original crank from a page or two back. Sounds like it has plenty do though...

The pits won't worry it.
If it's got a turbo you can probably not worry about the muffler at all.
I've got a VT903 in a 3070 with a straight through short pipe on it and it is quieter than my Louie with a natural 903 and 2 X 4" baffled mufflers.
I don't know anything about the camshafts.

No problems with the liner seal area in the block?

6V53 have got 2 liner O rings from memory. If they haven't had inhibitor in them they can get electrolysis there too. Pretty sure you only get 1 liner O ring in the gasket kit though, could be wrong. Been a long timer since I've had one apart.

Yes ,there is only one ring in the kit,t he bottom groove doesnt actually need sealing as there is blower pressure forcing any oil back into the crankcase.Why is it there? Must be a reason.

There are two grooves provided to extend the life of the block- if the top groove gets corroded, you simply stick the seal in the good bottom groove. The groove below the airbox was eliminated in later engines, presumably because tighter tolerances reduced the leakage between the crankcase and airbox.