A was for Austin, but now B is for Bedford

I can't imagine a door without some form of rubber seal so I think one should go somewhere, even if it is like the Kingswoods (I think) where the moulding that holds the upholstery in place has the rubber seal on it.

Yes I think cobbadog is right, that is what is meant to be there. Nothing so exciting in mine so far.

The right hand door was a bugga to get where it is now, and is evident if you go back through the earlier stages to see what I was up against - it must have taken a decent shunt in the front right corner at some stage with what looked like dodgy brothers crash repair work to make it useable again. :pinch:

ALSO, Pierre, the budget ignition switch has just fallen apart, the back section separating from the front! Hope yours doesn't do the same. :oops:

PDU, This is what I have installed on the inside around the door apertures glued & held under the inner trim panels.



Pretty much as cobbadog has alluded to that being, similar to the Holden with rubber tubing inside an outer material covering. Furflex.

I just thought there may have been a plain rubber seal attached to the door itself. No big deal, don't think it's a deal breaker!

I'll go back & look at your earlier posts on the door issues, but I might just get away with some packing of the hinges.

Your ignition switch issue noted, I'll keep an eye on mine.
Funny thing is, sometimes the IGN light comes on when the switch is activated & sometimes not, but still starts!

cheers for your inputs
Pierre

sounds like there is a baad contact in the switch for the light not to come on.

Pierre: Initially my switch started doing weird things when trying to start it, almost starting, dying, but with a quick wriggle of the key it would kick back into life (with lights projecting the same lack of contact). This got progressively worse until it would turn the ignition on, but not activate the starter. This was not a major issue as I didn't want to move the car; I just like to run it for a few minutes every so often and it was easy enough to just reach into the engine bay to push the button on the solenoid to do that. I would think at this point the back of the switch had moved away from the internal contact. Eventually it would not even turn on (with no ignition light coming on at all) at which point I got in there and looked a bit closer - discovering the back had dropped off completely (where it still sits until I bother to either attempt a re-connect or simply buy another switch!?). No big deal atm.

ALSO: Save yourself the trouble of going back looking at the door issues in my post, I was referring to where I had to open up the front door post to straighten out the bent hinge mountings. Which at least enabled me to tweak the door slightly and improve the gaps - it is still wider than I would like but will suffice.

Where did you buy your furflex/tubing from as I can probably pick some up next time I'm in town? How much did they rob you for it? Being a tight bastard at the best of times I have been waiting for the next time I call in at U-Pull-It to see what is on offer, which is the other (un)likely procurement spot for a replacement ignition switch. :S

And for those who think my future is at risk . . . the "other" (TD) Bedford still remains in hiding :evil: where it will sit until I get around to throwing a battery into it to see what might come to life???

Plus: All the usual Christmas/New Year sentiments from me to thee all . . .

PDU, not sure exactly but not cheap, it came together with the new hood lining & trim cover strips from Alan Smith Tim Shop on Regency Road.
Pierre

Adjusting doors and other panels to make them fit is an art in itself and more so on older vehicles. Doors use to be packed out using sheet metal shims, (Ford were big on this) but the hinges usually allowed for some forward and backward movement to centre them. Another trick used particularly by custom car builders building a show vehicle is welding some wire or rod in some cases to the edge then grinding them back to make the correct gap.

Oh yeah, I considered that . . . :whistle:

UES International have a branch in Adelaide. Shop probably has more that what is listed in the on-line catalogue

Feeling guilty I removed the ignition switch and had a go sorting it out. Following a few attempts the switch was re-assembled and the four retaining lugs on the back of the switch received an extra tap with a small hammer (to enhance their holding ability). Everything looked and felt okay.
Next I went scrounging through various spare nuts to replace one that I had dropped off (about six months ago) while fiddling with some of the accessory wiring - needless to say that nut remains unfound. One would think the switch would be metric, but no, that would be too easy . . . after about half an hour I was into my English nuts and screws from Triumph/Humber spares before I found one that fitted. Chinese switch using one form or another of British thread!? Can't fathom that :huh:
Hooked up the wires and reconnected the battery and straight away realised that the wires are not back on correctly OR the internals are cock about! Whatever, I could turn it off, (and on) but could not start it from the key so resorted to pushing the solenoid button to start it - which it did straight away without even using the choke - not bad considering how long it has been sitting idle.
Such is life, maybe I look at it again tomorrow, but maybe not? :whistle: