1965 F250’s Rejuvenation

The pin has broken from the mount as it had all but rusted through. I had some epoxy I thought I’d try to see how it bonded. If that fails I will grind off what remains of the tab and weld a new one on then look to re-pin that. I’ve certainly learnt over the past 18 months these old jiggers can often be two steps forward, 1 step back.

Urchy87 wrote:

I’ve certainly learnt over the past 18 months these old jiggers can often be two steps forward, 1 step back.

Never has a true statement been said when mucking about with these buckets of bolts

Dunno much about these pivot pins, I repaired a tractor door once and tack welded the hing back into the door frame
All was good and I was quite proud of my results and wondered off to have a cuppa while it cooled and then I heard a almighty bang

When I got the glass had shattered, think the small amount of heat must of warpped it a little bit, might be worth considering this if you plan on welding a fresh pin in

Paul

Urchy87,
Try "The Rubber Connection" Factory 6, 355-365 South Gippsland Highway, Dandenong South 3175, phone (03) 9799 1012 info@rubberconnection.com.au
for window parts. Their card says they specialise in Classic Ford Parts. My Mate got door and window rubbers for his 1952 International from them as Inter used exactly the same profile as 1952 Ford.

Mrsmackpaul, broken glass is certainly a couple steps back so you are too familiar with my statement by the sounds.

Morris, thanks for the contact information. I need some glass setting tape for the quarter glasses. It looks like something to be purchased from specialist stores, I’ll have a chat to them.

Today I finished putting the drivers door back together. The JB Weld epoxy I used on the quarter glass pivot joint was rock solid and will be the fix for it.



The door had a serious dint that needed to be removed which I worked on a couple days ago. Was caused by a stick jamming in the mirror rumor has it. I just needed to get it out so the quarter glass worked and the anti rattle strips could be installed. It actually went better than I thought it would. I’m not concerned about the paint damage or crease as that’s the vibe for the rig. I removed it by pulling the door tight with a ratchet strap then used hydraulic spreaders inside it to work the dent out. Here’s some before and afters and the equipment I used.









Now for the step back. Haha. The door rubbers are making it incredibly tight to close the doors. The pressure on the seal is not really acceptable. I’ve played around with adjustments as much as I can. Surely it’s a familiar issue with new seals. Should I just trim them up where the clearance is tight? What would you do/have you done? Thanks.

I have just trimed them and so far no dramas


Paul

The common terminology for the port-a-power attachment was "fanny spreaders", worked every time.

The doors on my Acco truck were taken off long before i bought it, for rust repair. They were put back on too far forward, and so the door seal (same old original seal) was squashed excessively at the hinge end when the latch was still about 4 or 5 inches from being closed. Once forced closed, it put so much load on the latch it felt as if the lift up paddle type handle was going to snap every time the door was opened. Amazingly the previous owners used the truck like this for another 19 years!

I just couldn't live with it, so i marked all the hinges and latches, then loosened the hinge bolts and slid the doors back only 2-3mm, and it fixed the problem completely, just leaving the slightest amount of "spring" from the seal. The doors once again have that very familiar Acco door closing sound, and opening them is now a light lift of the handle as it should be.

All the gaps are still parallel, just that the doors are now 2-3mm further back, which has actually helped centralise the catches better in the latches.

Maybe you still have some room (gap) to manoeuvre your doors back slightly, even if it means slotting the holes ever so slightly more. Or depending on how the doors and or hinges are attached, shimming the doors or hinges out slightly until the seals settle a bit, and then hopefully removing the shims at a later date.

Brett.

Mrsmackpaul, cheers mate. Good chance I’ll be having to do that. I hope not too though.

cobbadog, I can see how that name would have come about.

180wannabe, I’ve done about as much adjusting as I can with what is there. I’d have to take to the hinge mount with a grinder as the steel in the door frame has a pressed lip in it and I’ve butted it up hard to that. Did think about snipping the corner out of it but wanted to check the thoughts of you lot in here. Cheers mate.

As for now it will be parked up for a few weeks before I can get back to it so I have shut both doors hard closed in the hope that the constant pressure over that time will make the rubber give a little or at the least leave a mark where the highest pressure points are for me to decide whether to trim or not to trim. Thanks lads.

Hey all,

Well….my leave the doors shut for a while method has helped a bit. I’ll leave it for a bit longer and see how it goes. I’m not as concerned with it now as the latch pressure has reduced but would like to sort it eventually.

Today I connected the fuel system, back up to the actual tank. My temporary ride on mower tank has served me well although the old 300 would scull it’s contents in no time. First start took some cranking to prime it but it got there in the end. I also replaced one of the battery terminals, now it cranks over like an absolute champion.

I’ve got some hardwood runners to sit the tray on now so getting it back on is almost in my sights. Before I do that I want to make an undercarriage spare tyre carrier. Have any of you made one or have a reference for an easy idea. I was thinking of just using gate hinges some box steel or unistrut for the frame and some tray latches to hold it up.

In the coming days I hope to make that and put some helicoils in the head so I can pull the intake and exhaust manifolds up tight. We’ve got a major vacuum leak.

Cheers, Urchy

Well the I table manifold has cracks on the tabs which was the cause of vacuum loss. They have been there for some time but the oil/debris that was in them. Yet to repair this as I’m a bit gun shy on welding cast. Might give it a go later this week.

The tyre carrier has been made and installed. I used unistrut, some gate hinges and a couple lockable latches so they can’t come undone. It’s work pretty well. A touch awkward to get the tyre in but that’s ok with me.