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To beavertail or not???

11 years 4 months ago #103990 by
Replied by on topic Re: To beavertail or not???
Heycharger

Can you draw us up a mudmap with what you are thinking, coz i cant see how you are going to pull from the front as the ramps are going to be below centre when they are down.

Picture below show my little isuzu with the winch mounted in the middle at the front, since this picture was taken i have fitted the ramps as per second picture.

Once the ramps are down the cable would be trying to pull straight back on its self to try and lift them and that just will not work, if you put either the winch higher or somehow lift up the rear point you will not be able to have anything on the tray.





If i get a chance tomorrow i will lay the ramps down and pull the winch out and take some pictures.

Trevor

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11 years 4 months ago #103991 by
Replied by on topic Re: To beavertail or not???
Just had another thought to when you are lowering them with the winch they would get to a point and then just drop.

Couple of quick mud maps.



This one you can see before it gets to the 3rd picture it will already have dropped.


Trevor

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11 years 4 months ago #103992 by geoffb

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11 years 4 months ago #103993 by
Replied by on topic Re: To beavertail or not???
Geoff

Have been called a lot of things before but artist :D :D

Trevor

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11 years 4 months ago #103994 by HeyCharger
Hey Trevor. You spotted my obvious problem ;).
So the cable has to be attached to a point above the level of the tray to be able to pull it up.
In very simple terms, what is needed is say a vertical post (about 2' long) mounted, say 3' down from the tray hinge point.
Now the real problem is that the cable will now foul on vehicles on the tray :-/
Apologies for creating a crayon forum :D

Proud owner of;
1948 Massey Harris 44K.
1946 Ford Semi-Trailer Bus.

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11 years 4 months ago - 11 years 4 months ago #103995 by
Replied by on topic Re: To beavertail or not???
No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationCome inside its playschool ;D ;D


Easiest solution might just be something like this

one of these



Couple of these



And a couple of short hoses.

Jobs done neat tidy and safe.

Then just have the winch for what its best at.

Added: Or what about a set of Aluminium ramps like my ones i paid about $900 for the pair.


Trevor

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11 years 4 months ago #103996 by HeyCharger
Sort of agree with you Trevor. But I keep in mind that the hyd setup will cost me about $grand.
That about as much as I paid for the truck ;D
Don't want to over capitalise. :D.
Rod.

Proud owner of;
1948 Massey Harris 44K.
1946 Ford Semi-Trailer Bus.

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11 years 4 months ago - 11 years 4 months ago #103997 by Lang
Replied by Lang on topic Re: To beavertail or not???
Simplest would be balance springs like you see on the ramps of horse-float trailers.

You can either have the long spring that slides along the ramp as you lower or these smaller twisting ones.

www.mrtrailer.com/titan_trailer_flatbed.htm

Here they are at $16 each.

www.easternmarine.com/right-hand-torsion...21-23-in-lbs-3002880

Lang
Last edit: 11 years 4 months ago by Lang.

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11 years 4 months ago - 11 years 4 months ago #103998 by HeyCharger
If I run the cable from the front of the tray on top of tray to the rear and then UNDER the ramps to the bottom rung of the rearmost of the ramps (which touch the ground) this may work.
Going to make a very rough wooden model of what I think I can do, to see if it works.

Lang thanks but my ramps bi-fold UNDER not over.
Rod.

Proud owner of;
1948 Massey Harris 44K.
1946 Ford Semi-Trailer Bus.
Last edit: 11 years 4 months ago by HeyCharger.

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11 years 4 months ago #103999 by dodgemetal
well not sure if this would work but it does in my mind, and only uses the one lead.
So when raising u run it under a roller at the back of tray, and under roller placed out lower on first part of ramps, and should raise up,
when lowering u run it under first roller but over second one's cross beam, should lower alright.(havent drawn that in pic though).
As it's not a widening float(what i usaully deal with) u can put the cross beams in no problem. The lower bit on for second roller would stick out when up but shouldn't get in way if measured right and having all the force applied in centre distributes the weight well. long as u ok with a welder shouldnt cost much for 2 rollers.

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