International Farmall AMD

Not that one mate, but the one below it, with the two screws. Removing this will give you access to the camshaft, fuel rack and the bottom of the pump elements. The four screws only secure the pump barrels. If you take the delivery check valves out of the pipe unions, you can backflush the pump elements with WD40 or similar. The rest of the pump can just be drained, flushed and filled with engine oil.

Thanks, I had a look this afternoon and spotted my mistake straight away. Will do through the week.

Having undone 2 and 3 big ends, I managed to lift 1 and 4 sleeves up about half an inch by turning the crank.
I prised #1 sleeve up another inch with a tyre lever, so that one is free. #4 piston is still stuck solid. I got carried away and broke part of the top flange off that sleeve. I should have known better. I wanted to save them, although there is quite a lip in the bores. They appear to be still available.

Jarrod.

Jarrod I would try just stick a jack or porta power between the top of the piston and and piece of steel bolted to the head studs and push the pistons back down the bore ( might pay you to sit a piece of steel plate on top of the piston then hone the bore a bit and pull the piston and then jack or pull the sleeves as you have now shifted them they will have to come out

You will have to pull the crank out to do this but its in heaps of bits now so few more wont hurt

good luck

Paul

Paul, I thought of that, but I don't have that kind of scrap laying around.
I did manage to turn the crank far enough to get #'s 1 and 4 big ends off.
About this time I had to look at why I could only turn the crank about 1/4 of a turn - it was in two gears! I'm guessing that's what put it out of commission. I think it's in 5th. This explains why I can only find two "gates" instead of three at the gear lever. I don't know if it's a common thing to happen in these and won't know what's wrong until I get the top of the gearbox. Lots of other stuff is bolted to that.
Having worked that out, I could proceed to use the one intact back tyre as a slide hammer to pop the sleeves out.
I got all four sticking out as far as the crankpins would push them - #1 then popped out with a hammer and wooden drift from underneath. We were then struck by a fierce storm, so no further removal of engine bits today.
I did, however get #1 piston out of the sleeve (It was stuck worse than I thought - I had to use the press).
It looks like I will get away with that one. Most of the rings are free and the grooves seem good. Fingers crossed the other ones come out in similar fashion.

Jarrod.

most old tractors have fairly basic selector gates on top or side of the box and wear is fairly common so getting stuck in 2 gears is not un common I have always just welded the worn bits back up and ground smooth problem solved

some people lite a fire inside the sleeves before pushing the piston fill them up with sump oil or diesel and let them burn and cool before pushing might have to add some petrol to the mix to get it to burn

Paul

Worked with my Wallis

Mission accomplished.


Got them all out today. No fire was going to touch this - #1 turned out to be the only one to give up easily, the others really loaded the press up before giving way. No amount of bashing even then, had to be the press.

As an experiment, I'm trying the best one in the ultrasound bath with some industrial cleaner in it.


I'll clean these over the next few weeks. Next is the pump cover to see what it looks like inside, then see what's wrong with the gearbox. Then start chasing bits with all that money I'll have left over after Christmas :silly:

Jarrod.

I had a go at pulling the cover off the injector pump, but the hand pump is in the way of one of the screws. It looks fragile, so I'll take my time with it. It has a plastic knob and an aluminium tube body. Looks really easy to break.

Onto the gearbox - theory correct; it was indeed stuck in fifth out of the gate. Now I know what took it out of service. That was fixable with the belt pulley drive off. I still want to fix that, so off with it's head. I figured it was full of water, since it is leaking oil out the back axles. The gearbox seemed full of "oil" - after draining same, it's nearly empty - must've been 20 litres in there...

All looks good in here.


Jarrod.

ASW if the starter is the same as an aw6 (& 7 & 554 & 564) the mount back to front to normal, they lie along the bell housing facing the front, not facing the rear and they wind the opposite way, so that makes them a bit special, they repair OK if you have got a rewinder bloke, assuming you can find the right one and I think there might be two sizes, one petrol and one diesel... not sure of that though or it maybe one 6 volt one 12.


good luck

Thanks, Sarge. That's the one I need. The one I have looks too small. I also haven't checked which way it turns, yet. I think it's off something else.

Jarrod.