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Strange tyre wear - please help

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1 year 10 months ago #235699 by jon_d
diagram for which comment?

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1 year 10 months ago #235751 by Sarge
I had a ltle bit of wear issue in the mighty ACCO, also had a roadworthy bloke tell me my crappy shackle bushes and pins were crappy, fixed all that and found the eye on the rear right spring was busted, not obvious until I pulled the pin out (sits inside a cast cup). The combined repairs made a huge difference to steering.

Sarge B)
ACCO Owner, Atkinson dreamer.
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1 year 10 months ago #235813 by ashmenz0
Hi Jon_d, this is the one I'm not quite getting. Regards, Ash

Sorry, just saw this thread.

Does look like axle misalignment. The inside of one and outside of the other is scrubbed; indicating it's being pushed forward while steering to the side.

If you get 2 pieces of 4 meter (straight) square tube and weld on 2 long nuts; the nuts are spaced at the rim flange distance crossing through the axle centre line.. Then screw in some all-thread to clear the body and of exactly equal length. Then butt the allthread up to the rim and measure the distance from tube to body. Measure close to the rim and then at the end of the tube. If the rim is parallel to the body, the 2 measurements will be the same.

Assuming the distances between the 2 points that have rotated (spring centre bolt) is 2400mm, and the shift is 30mm @ 4 meters. Then at 4 meters from the axle centre, the tube will be about 50mm further out from the body than at axle centre. This would equate to about 0.7* misalignment.

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1 year 10 months ago - 1 year 10 months ago #235865 by jon_d
Ash,

Hope these help. I'm not very good at technical drawings.



Looking down showing how the bars press up against the rims. When there is zero toe, the distance between the bars at any point is equal.


Showing how the bar is supported out the front of the bus.


Showing how a laser can be added to check alignment to the rear. A tape measure is butted against the rear rim and the laser cuts the tape. The measured distance from laser to rim should be equal.
Last edit: 1 year 10 months ago by jon_d.
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1 year 10 months ago #235869 by ashmenz0
Thanks jon_d

That helps heaps for going to all that trouble.

I’ll have to get to work on it.

Thanks again. Much appreciated

Ash

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1 year 10 months ago #235870 by jon_d
You're welcome. Just be careful to get straight RHS. When I did it, they had a slight bow in one plane. I was able to use the other plane to get straight lines.
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1 year 10 months ago - 1 year 10 months ago #235883 by jon_d
Ash,

one more drawing.

The two bars need to be perfectly parallel and the all thread length has to be precise. The easiest way to to do this is to "head and toe" them and adjust the thread length. Hence the long nuts. (with lock nuts)


Last edit: 1 year 10 months ago by jon_d.

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1 year 10 months ago #235884 by Mrsmackpaul
Chocs a fella that was on here some years ago that is sadly no longer with us a couple of bits of square tube that slide inside each other with some locking bolts welded to them to stop them sliding
He had another couple of short bits of steel welded on each end
These clamped a Stanley knife blade
He would adjust these so the ran on a ridge of the tyre tread
Then put a mark on, say in front of axle
Spin the wheels 180 degrees and just hold the tool on the rear of the front axle

He told about 2 mm toe in was okay

I have found things along way out with just a tape measure and even getting close with a tape made a huge difference

Paul

Your better to die trying than live on your knees begging
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1 year 10 months ago #235885 by Lang
I have an old extendable tent pole. The type that has one tube inside the other and a locking screw on the style Paul just mentioned. Can be bought at camping stores for a few dollars or just borrow the pole off your ute awning..

Here you go $21 for two. Cheap for a patented wheel alignment tool.

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1 year 10 months ago #235894 by hayseed

Chocs a fella that was on here some years ago that is sadly no longer with us a couple of bits of square tube that slide inside each other with some locking bolts welded to them to stop them sliding
He had another couple of short bits of steel welded on each end
These clamped a Stanley knife blade
He would adjust these so the ran on a ridge of the tyre tread
Then put a mark on, say in front of axle
Spin the wheels 180 degrees and just hold the tool on the rear of the front axle

He told about 2 mm toe in was okay

I have found things along way out with just a tape measure and even getting close with a tape made a huge difference

Paul

I've got a a similar type of gadget Paul, Only I used a couple of Old Pitchfork Tines instead of Stanley Knife Blades...!

Having said that. I Doubt that Toe-in Is the cause of Ashmenz's issue.. But I have been wrong before..

Ashmenz I'm curious to see the final outcome of this..?

"Be who you are and say what you feel...
Because those that matter...
don't mind...
And those that mind....
don't matter." -
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