1975 Atkinson restoration

Not kno n the situation of the pin hole in the top tank
2 ruff choices
<1> Drill the hole out n tap in a sealed treaded plug
<2> thoroughly clean n blo air back in the hole to dry the pin hole then fill with JBWeld ( the yanks swear by tis stuff )





cya

EDIT
Whoops Eye'm bad
Tap in as threaded

If you dont want to fix it, as in drop the tanks off and build a fresh tank
This Deks two pack stuff will work fine

www.bunnings.com.au/deks-1l-two-part-epo...ty-compound_p4987228
Let it set as the instructions say and it will be water tight and last

However that been said, I wouldn't do that, I would just get new tanks made and a new core

Yes it will cost a few bob but will out last you if you look after

The Mack was 5 grand, the Inter tractor was 1500

The D7 Cat is next and it will be 5 grand or more
I figure if I look after these the radiators will out last me well and truly and will be cheap investment and one less worry

And if it develops a leak and I cook a motor the radiator is dirt cheap by comparison

Paul

Mrs Mack, I agree that I could bodgey a repair, and I might do so if I was confident that 'pin' hole was the only weak point. My worry is that if it was that thin in one place, probably that thin in many other places and murphy says it will leak when I'm a long way from home. I will pull it down, and hope that I don't have to touch the core, just make new tanks. Have done everything properly up to now, so may as well go on as I started.

Oilman, At the very least I'd Pull both Tanks & get an old Dipstick & shove down each & every Tube, to ensure the Cores OK..

Oilman, is your radiator one of those with individual tubes and grommets? I think we need a step by step video of the process. Please. EMNTK.

Saw a bloke usethat steel packing strap to push through his cores once a long time ago. Fortunately for him the core was in good shape only blocked with crap so he had a good outcome.
Not sure wht the tanks are made from but maybe a brazing job will permanently fix it.

From the photos, the E1 and E3 valves look very similar except for the dual circuit.
Makes me think the diaphragms etc would be the same.
Could perhaps dismantle the E3 and use it as parts for the E1 if you wanted her totally original.

The return spring from a small engine rope pull starter will straighten and be long enough for the core.
David.

I pulled the radiator down today. The core is a modern type with a plate top and bottom and tubes (not the old type with the individual tubes and rubber grommets,). The tubes all look clear, so no cleaning required. The tanks top and bottom are made from 3/16" plate. I will have them sandblasted inside and hoping I can just run some beads of weld to fill where required but won't know until I see how bad they are. Wondering if I could paint the inside of the tanks?

The E1 and E3 are both single circuit foot valves. I think the only difference is that they are a different design. There was nothing wrong with the spring, they are perfect condition inside, I think it is just the rubber seat has aged and slightly leaking. Not enough to cause an issue, but won't hold air for a roadworthy.

The only concern with painting the inside of the tanks would be if the paint peeled off and blocked some tubes

Im sure there is some sort of coating type of stuff that wont do this, I have no idea what it would be though


Paul