A was for Austin, but now B is for Bedford

Thanks for the tips, Fellows!
Will be no doubt asking the odd question or two as it progresses
Dave

Finished in the Op Shop ($300+ for the day), took the dog for a walk, cooked my tea, and checked this post . . . Bugger me! :huh: Four more comments!

I did manage to clean the paint on the cab roof before going to the Op Shop (using stripper and scraper, no noise) and now have the back of the cab, driver's door, and under the bonnet/bulkhead to go.

At GMH there you used to be two lead wipers working, one either side of the vehicle, at the same time. No doubt Bedford construction was similar, and after lifting the paint on the roof can only say the person who worked on the passenger's side was either a beginner, having a bad day, or had just been told he was being laid off!?

I like seeing all the comments here for you PDU. Because while this is so active they have forgotton about my McDonald lack of progress. Every time I thought about contacting my supplier of the long awaiting parts the phone rang and that was that.

Ha! Retaliation can be beautiful, especially when it comes when you're not expecting it . . . :evil:


I hadn't forgotten cobba, just waiting . . . :huh: :blink: :lol:

Had a spare hour today and was able to finish stripping the top of the roof off completely - but have discovered some pin holes above the driver's door gutter (looks like the old Japanese 4WD problems?) and one hole above the passengers window :huh:

Plus about a dozen other perforated bits scattered around, down the bottom of the cab. Only small, but will be time consuming (what's new?). Any suggestions?

However B for is looking much better overall - despite the driver's door and back of cab still not having been touched yet. :dry:

Not sure what welders you have at your disposal but that type of repair is so easy using a MIG. Just some tack welds will fill the holes with minimum amount of heat required. Then a grind off flat and smooth.

Depends how fussy you are. There are sealers which will take care of that in fiddly areas. Drip check sealer being one. Some go hard, some not so much. Of course, if they're easily accessible and there's nothing nearby that you don't want burnt - mig away!

Jarrod.

You can use an old fashioned copper soldering iron (the one with the big head) as a backer to absorb some heat and make welding pinholes easier/safer.

Yes, used as a heat sink.

The holes are actually bigger than pinholes, and the metal looks to be thinner than I would like.

I was thinking about a bit of fibreglass cloth inside, with some body filler on top - absolutely no risk of creating a sunroof . . . :ohmy: