A was for Austin, but now B is for Bedford

To go down that route it will work and work well just a matter of treating the area with plenty of rust converter first so that no rust exists under where you want to lay the matt and resin.
I have not tried it nor seen or heard of this being done but some of that JB Weld or the Selleys U-Need-It flexible metal putty might work as well. A lot less messy and easy to shape and not too bad to file back.
Any thoughts?

Have tried that cobba, not bad, but found fibreglass cloth to be quite effective on a small section of the Herald Coupe floor (in the passenger's footwell) that was in a similar condition.

Don't see the sense in testing Ernie's welding skills when it isn't necessary . . . I've got enough little spots for him to play with later as it is. :whistle:

Busy, busy, big time, elsewhere again - more wood has arrived for framing walls at the Men's Shed, plus the Op shop still has two weeks to run. Meanwhile I'm dropping out from my Registrar's role with Gawler Car Club next week . . . so maybe time to actually join H.C.V.C. !?

After building some more wall frames today for the Men's Shed . . .




. . . I took some pictures of my hol(e)y roof. Still has paint in the gutters that needs to be cleaned out, and what could have caused that hole above the passenger's front window?

I wonder if those holes actually came from the inside (condensation, such as kills every 60's and 70's Inter and Dodge eventually).

Would pay to check inside, if you can get to it.

Jarrod.

I agree with Jarrod, IH Scouts rust from the inside out and the windscreen frame is often the first to go. Condensation forms inside the hollow frame and drops of water must form where there are imperfections in the metal and just sit there quietly feeding the rust.

IHScout/asw120: I can get to the inside easily, no headlining left!
Late Sunday afternoon: Almost all paint off the cab now (outside at least, except for upper section of driver's door), leaving inner door edges (doors and cab),bulkhead/firewall and general tidy up around seams and windows.



NB The plastic sponge thingo was quicker, but virtually non existent after stripping back of cab and lower section of driver's door. Doesn't leave the body as smooth and shiny as the curly wire cup I was using previously. :dry:

YOur making good progress PDU. Love the frame work your doing. Does anyone use a hammer and nails anymore?

Everything seems to be taking a LOT of time though cobba, and YES I do use a hammer - for the mishits, double hits, and to pull out the odd stuff ups! :whistle:

Me and hammers have a hit n miss affair or you may call me 'lightning' never strikes the same place twice.
Nothing like leaving the "2 bob" marks on nice clean timber is there?

I placed one of my noggins mildly un-horizontal (at the end of a frame) just below a slot in the timber intended to clear an angle bracket in the metal framing. After standing it up to rest against the wall it stood out like dogs you know whats alongside the rest of the noggins. I was disgusted at my shoddy workmanship - and to make it worse the other guys have been commenting about it repeatedly!

Although I partially solved the problem by carefully placing the next two frames in front of it . . . so it was hidden, I'll feel better when the gyprock goes on and hides it once and for all! (IF you look back at the picture of the frames you'll notice the three frames leaning up against the wall, BUT you can't see the offending noggin as it is just out of shot deliberately. :lol:

PDU - Bodgy Builder Extrodinaire :blush: