A was for Austin, but now B is for Bedford

Thanks everyone for your viewpoints, the Ormonoid has it, without corflute underneath. I have some cheap disposable brushes on hand ready for Thursday/Friday's Ormonoiding session - provided it is sunny so I can lay the sheets out to dry.

More suggestions needed now: What thickness sheeting on the rear . . . cheap and light?
AND
What is the best way to attach sheets to the framework (screws, rivets, adhesives, or whatever)?

That should give you all a chance to share your collected wisdom . . .

For what it's worth, all modern buses and coaches are glued together. Nice smooth sides and no visible fixings. In saying that, rivets wouldn't look out of place on the beast you are building and would fit with the vintage of the Bedstead.

Use one of the SikkaFlex products to bond it together. Brilliant product/s. Read the brochure to choose the right one.

PDU,I agree that cladding on modern buses is stuck on with Sikaflex. As Cobbadog Says read the brochure to choose the correct one. It comes in cartridges to suit a normal silicone applicator, and in long flexible bags to suit a special Sikaflex gun. Even if you rivet the sheets on you will have to be careful to prevent rattling against the framework, as well as the "oilcanning" noise made by thin sheetmetal. I will ask a Mate of mine who used to run a huge bus Company what metal and thickness he would recommend. He did not make bodies but ran hundreds of buses so probably knows. Pop rivets would not look right unless you can fill the heads to make them look like solid rivets.I think you would have to Sikaflex the sheets to the frame, whether or not you rivet or screw them just to prevent rattles.

Thanks cobba, it was the "oilcanning" issue that prompted my questions, not that I would imagine I'll hear it from the cab!? :lol: This effect should be reduced by lining all panels with surplus insulation material, courtesy the Men's Shed.

The cost, but more importantly, the method and ease of application will no doubt decide which way I proceed when it comes to adhesive selection.

Attachment via screws, tekkies, or rivets (suitably filled) is a concern - with teks being the easiest to use but possibly not the greatest look? Whatever, with enough of them it probably wouldn't really be an issue, except for the purists and rivet counters. :whistle:

PDU wrote: Thanks cobba,

probably wouldn't really be an issue, except for the purists and rivet counters. :whistle:

You're Building it for Your Pleasure, Not theirs ............so don't Worry about them..:evil:

'oilcanning' I take it is similar to the metal 'drumming'. So if it is underneath the tray then visit an engineering shop worth a bender and put a nice slight criss cross crease in each sheet like they do on A/C ducting but not as pronounce. OR, turn down the volume on the hearing aids OR drive faster.

Hayseed: I've already made my A E Neuman quote, I don't worry about them, although they can be a factor at times . . . :oops:

Cobbadog:
1. In my vocabulary it does oilcanning = drumming

2. Not underneath, the sheeting for the rear section sides and over the turret part.

3. No hearing aid but there will be a radio - i.e. turn it up. :lol:

4. Drive faster? We are talking Bedford here . . . an unknown possibility from what I can gather!? :blink:

Ormonoid is brilliant, and was easy to apply using a roller, especially with all the sections upside down. However I found the recommended mix ( 3:1 H2O:Ormonoid) tended to be very weak; second coat was closer to 2:1 and more satisfying. :huh: For anyone contemplating doing similar, I was going to buy a 4 litre tub, but as there were only 1 litre tubs available, I bought two of these instead. Could have saved some money as I only used one - it goes a long way.




Although sidetracked with other issues (household mostly) I have managed to paint the chassis rails where the flooring is going to be fitted, except for two spots waiting on welding the tank mountings and fuel lines between tanks, pumps, etc.


Also have bought some sheeting, and now wondering where I'm going to find some "spare" cash for what is required to cover the sides and turret? :pinch:

Never thought of using a roller to apply Ormanoid before and yours looks great. I have brushed it in the past and I even bought a spray applicator bottle which was not expensive, under $20.00 and intend to spray under the cab of Lorry once I have finished doing the last of a rust repair one day.
A mate use to equally mix Ormanoid, raw fish oil and lanolin oil together and warm it up in a metal tin the spray it under his Land Rover for solid work on the beach most days. That mix never allowed rust to get started and the tray was lifted every couple of years and re-applied. Yep it stank like his fish product he was on the beach for but it did work.