A was for Austin, but now B is for Bedford

Slowly piece by piece - measure, check, cardboard or corflute templates, try again, then go walkabout to find sheet metal and then pay my offspring's inheritance (before they see it) to pay for it plus extra for cuts, folds, etc. The four small pieces I used over the rear guards were $70, and then I hit them with my disc grinder! If I had blown them I would have had to fork out another $70; it was never this expensive when I first started mucking around with cars. As a side note I now know that a bottle of argon is $100 odd too! :pinch: :blink:
Wait until I struggle wrapping the pieces over the side of the turret and down to the waist (shoulder?) line. That's going to be loads of fun.
AND then when I have the sheet metal pieces made, I can take them all off so I can sikaflex, screw, and pop rivet them back into place again. :whistle:
Maybe by the two year mark . . . and then there will still be paint and other things to ensure I will not die a rich man. :oops: :silly:

You really are making great progress and it is looking great as well.

I'm not smartest joker on here so I wont advise you on sheet metal as I really have no idea

I wonder if adhesive that is used to stick car and truck panels together would be a option for hanging this tin ware on the truck

I have seen blokes use it on forums for sticking new roofs etc on trucks, apparently it is pretty common these days

Paul

I have got some "adhesive that is used to stick car and truck panels together" and simply used Sikaflex as a name because I couldn't remember what the correct name was without going out to the shed (yet again - see Pierre's post Bedford K Restoration).

As I have only a slim knowledge about what I'm attempting to do I will no doubt bumble my way through it . . . and I will correct the name later Paul. :blush:

So be it: Parfix Fast Grip contact adhesive.

Have you thought about removing the Tekkies one at a time and plug welding the panel.

Not really Zuffen, if I need to remove the panels I should be able to with tek screws (despite the contact adhesive ), whereas welding is a wee bit more permanent.

Sikaflex make a number of grades of adhesive and some of them really do hang on so it still can be an option, just a case of choosing the right one for the job. Chevy Corvettes had their bodies bonded to the chassis and that takes a lot to get to let go if the boddy has to be removed. So it's not a new process and iit certainly can be successfull

That contact is not right. Here is the SIKA info that the manufacturers of bus bodies etc use. Bunnings usually has most types. Several small aircraft have all their panels glued not rivetted as is most common. Big aircraft also have many glued panels.

aus.sika.com/en/36913/automotive-aftermarket/panel-bonding.html

With so much confidence being shown I might just rely on the contact adhesive plus the tek screws where they can be hidden.

BUT if any of my panels fly off you will definitely hear about it . . . :blink:

BDU
gudday m8
Wen fixn panels make sure U dun have over lap th@ snags the passin wind wen out whistlin up the hwy
alos we now use the black polyeurathane stuff for glue and sealers ..... smooth off with finger dipt in soapy water .... that way it dun snag n make drag lines

cya