McDonald Imperial Super-Diesel

The idea of putting the keys tapered side together was NOT my idea, I'm just not that smart. It was either on Smokstak engines or machine shop section. All I know is that I tested the theory at home by putting them together and taking the measurements. Something I did have to do is pack them up when in the vice as they would have sat below the top of the vice.
It was a learning curve to operate a machine I never have before and it was enjoyable.

Well progress ahs been on hold while I make some changes around the yard with a mini excavator this weekend but leading up to today I did manage to buy some more parts to get to the next stage and that is making a noise stage via no muffler, just a straight pipe. Yep nearly time to fit the water hopper and fuel tank and connect the fuel after I put the injector in place. Which reminds me the other day I took the fuel cap off again and took it and the fuel needle to the vice and used the smallest amount of fine grinding paste to seat the needle properly to the seat. Tested with some blue and a nice shiny ring showed up. Cleaned it all up with carby cleaner and nearly time to fit it to the head.

Today I went back and visited the injector, took it apart again and double checked the injector needle and made sure it seats and seals off properly. Then I took the plunger out of the top section, cleaned it up, put new gland packing in and put what looks like a nut back on the end along with the heavy spring using a new roll pin.
Then when I assembled the injector I tried to push down on the round piece on the top of the plunger needle and it wont move down or up. As I screw the top section into place initially there is movement and I can feel the small spring under the needle move up and down but as I screw the top section in more then there is no more movement.
OR am I doing this back to front and I should be lifting that round section to open the needle?

Yes, the needle is lifted up to admit fuel.
The spring is quite strong, as it has to resist combustion pressure.

Jarrod.

Hi Jarrod, thanks for the good advise. I must need more weet bix in the morning or slow down a bit and show my age more.
I will have another go soon. Should there be a washer between the main body and the top section? Maybe not as the nice new gland seal should stop any fuel coming back up.

I've only ever had the cup off mine, so I don't know. It does need re-packing.

Jarrod.

They only need repacking if they leak. When I looked inside mine there was 3/5th of F.A. left of what looked like string made from leather and crumbled in my hands. The hand book states to use the graphite string packing and I could not find any that I thought I had left so I bought the teflon one and will use it. If it leaks I will source the graphite one and it is not hard to get to and fix.
I stuck the injector in place and connected the governor linkage which is a trick to do with the other lever that goes across to the push rod and I have tightened the injector in place.
In the hand book it mentions to have 1/32" clearance between the linkage and the injector.
Is this done by loosening the little arm from the governor rod that runs through the hopper?
If so at what position should the (speed control) hand wheel be? With the tension all the way off the flywheel governor inside the crankcase?
Sorry for all the questions but the hand book is not clear on that part.

Sorry my ideas would be of no use to you, and good luck . . . :blush:

The only adjustment I'm aware of is to move the double offset lever adjusting bolt. From memory, the pushrod comes out a bit for a while. I think this is where I adjusted it, I'll have to check. This is before the pushrod opens the exhaust valve.
If that didn't make sense, let me have a look tomorrow. I can ring you then.

Jarrod.

CONFUSED here mate.
Will wait until further notice. At the moment between Lorry and this I am chasing my tail to get things done. But today I drilled the hole in my bullet proof fuel tank and fitted the fuel tap and then bolted the belt pulley on and that completes that side.

I am still looking at my valve timing and need confirmation if I have my gears in the correct alignment. I think they are right but not certain. With the marks on both gears in alignment and the piston is at TDC the highest lobe on the cam gear is pointing to 12 o'clock. Now the marks on the cam gear are ones I put there before taking it apart as there are no other marks on the gear.

I noticed the second keyway on the crankshaft gear but that has been explained and there is no timing mark for that position anyway.

Do you remember or have any pics of yours if you were this far inside your engine?