1975 Atkinson restoration

Paul, I wish my brakes were S cams, but unfortunately they are wedge. I think they can go either way, but will check before fitting.

It has been sometime since I posted an update. I have been beavering away without a lot of visible progress. I took 3 buckets of bits and pieces to the zinc plater (in Ballarat), almost have the motor back together and over the weekend I finally had the sandblasting done. It doesn't look like a lot in the photo but it took me half a day to cart all the bits and pieces out to the paddock and 4 hours for the sandblasting. Another half a day to get it all back and then a day and a half etch priming all the bits and pieces. Also filled some of the worst pitting with bog before being primed. I can see lots of nights over the next few months with paint and assembly. At least I'm on the way back.

Well, I have finally turned the corner and at least started to put things back together. The chassis has had about 6 coats of high build primer and a lot of sanding. I have removed the worst of the pits, but probably another couple of coats to go, especially on top of the rails now that they are facing up and easy to see/work on. The three cross members are also in. I will fit the front and rear suspension, front axle etc before applying the final topcoat.







I have also painted many of the parts to be bolted back onto the chassis. Some will be fitted before the final coat of paint and will hence get another coat while others will be fitted after. A small selection of the painted parts are below.



I am also still slowly paining other parts and that will take another couple of weeks to complete.
The motor is 98% back together so I will post a photo of that in a week or so after I refit the manifolds and a few other bits.

Jeeze
Looks like gunna B a better paint job than wot rolld out of the factory
Good Job OilMan
cya
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Finally have the Gardner back together. Only a cosmetic restoration, didn't remove the heads. Jobs done included:
1. Remove all the external items from the engine.
2. Have the 3 water manifolds welded and then surface ground.
3. Exhaust manifold lug repaired.
4. All alloy parts (except crankcase) vapour blasted.
5. Repaint all parts.
6. New gaskets.
7. Reseal sump.
8. Repair starter.
9. Relocate alternator to original location (not sure if it will work yet.)
10. Replace all radiator hoses with silicone type and new hose clamps
11. Fit thermostat (none fitted when dismantled).
12. Zinc plate some parts (yes, I know this isn't original).
13. Adjust timing chain.
14. Adjust valve clearance.
15. Relocate compressor oil pipe to correct location.
16. Remove and blank off tacho mechanical drive.
17. Replace clutch pilot bearing.

Is gunna look pretty flash jigger when done
Will make Mrs Mack look a tad dull in the engine bay for sure

Oilman,
It looks fantastic. better than new!
Why are you restoring in the shed? Fill restores his Bedford in the loungeroom. :evil: :evil:

Yup

RE: restoring in the shed

Jist like a Chinese Laundry .............. Evry thing hung up on the floor

LOL
cya

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Oilman, really like your work. Watched 4 or 5 videos on Wedge Brakes under
" Wedge Brakes On Trucks " Googled. Showed dismantle, service and assembly.
Old posts on this forum too.
Keep up the good work. Paul.

I am about to install the rear springs which are Rockwell camelback. They have 6 leaves on each side, but the RHS also has a spacer that fits between the spring and the saddle. The LHS has nothing. I contacted another owner who has an identical truck (apparently Nestle ordered 4 at the time and both are from the same order) and his is the same. Anyone have any idea why it would be like this. I could almost understand if it was on the LHS as that might be explained by road camber and the fuel tank (extra weight) is on that side. I'm sure someone knows the logical reason it is this way?