Late 354 Perk.

Cheers for the input blokes,

I perhaps wasn't clear when I said it was happy to spin to 3000, what I meant was it hadnt hit the wall, normally I work between 1100 & 2200 for top cruising speed in over over drive... it has a t34 5 speed and a joyey box and 4.3 diff gears so 110km/h is about 2300?

I am keen to put a boost gauge and pyrometer in for interests sake. I have noticed it really is sweet when you have an incline to pull and 1500 revs on. I think someone told me they used to run around 10 or 12psi max but I'm not sure what range you'd aim for in exhaust temperature.

The afore mentioned gearbox is a bit of a pain tbough, third is too low and the (•82?) joey really only gives you third and 1/3 if you try to split it... so if say 2800rpm is needed I can give it a few beans to get up to 4th.

Giving the injectors some love sounds like a good idea, I've no real clue how many kays it may have done, however some of the original steel welsh plugs were getting a bit thin with corrosion. Thankfully it all looked pretty clean inside when we dropped the sump to turn it around. Unlike my old engine, this one wasn't caked with gunk that looked like black yoghurt.

Do these Bosch pumps vive much trouble? I once replaced the main body O ring on the old CAV pump in the previous envine, that wasn't rocket surgery.

The most curious thing I've noticed with this Bosch unit is the bolt that holds it down onto the adaptor plate on the block has been fiddled with. Perhaps the thread was stripped or damaged previously? In any case it now leaks oil. When the truck is running, a continuous feed of oil seems to well up around the bolt head. For now I was going to try a fibre washer under it or perhaos some Loxeal.

Anyhoo, better run for now.

Cheers

Anthony

So the Perkins isn't going too badly... aside from the gearbox baulking in 2nd & 3rd..!



With some nice new copper washers and a dab of loxeal I have fixed the fuel line air leak that made it so difficult to start. I'm pretty pleased with it now but I suspect it will be much better with a pump and or injector tuneup. I've found that in some instances, when driving along with the foot fairly deep into the floor boards, it seems to make more torque when you lift off a bit.

I've always found Affordable Diesel in Wingfield (Adelaide) to be pretty helpful. Any ideas what you'd pay for a pump overhaul on one of these Bosch VF(?) pumps?

Does anyone have an injector pump bracket/adaptor I can buy? I think mine actually had a stud in it originally, that's been stripped out & if the pump has to come out then I'd be mad not to fix it properly. There is still an oil leak there somewhere that's annoying me a great deal.

The next job is a twin row alternator pulley. I built a high output one using mainly VP Commodore parts and made a pretty small pulley for it to keep the speed nice and high so it'll charge well at idle. Unfortunately when the fridge battery gets a bit flat overnight, the 85a alternator will smoke the single vee belt pretty easily if the tension isn't correct. Did they ever put a multigroove harmonic balancer onto a Perkins?

Lastly has anyone used an American style hydraulic boosted master cylinder? I am interested to see what I might be able to get without going to a vacuum booster. While I have a couple vac pumps, one leaks oil and I'd rather have a hydraulic pump for a possible Hilux power steering box in any case.

Anyhoo, thanks for listening blokes, sorry to hijack a thread but I'm bloody glad to have your help.

Cheers

Anthony

Firstly ,all these Bosch pumps were fixed at oil co expense when the low sulfur diesel hit.Unlike the DPAs ,the Bosch VF would pour and squirt out fuel from every joint .Hence they had to be fixed.The deal was oil co paid for new O rings and seals,but owners were always stuck with another $400 or so bill for "wear related repairs".I used to give written instruction for "no extra work".......Secondly,hydraulic boosters were fitted to earthmoving machines,and cost a fortune.Get yourself an air booster.The 2cyl compressor is too big,but youll have to live with it. Thirdly......In a small truck .I wouldnt be surprised if boost was minimal.Exh temp very low. Fourth....Id fit a jap power steering box while the motor is out.There s no way your Ross box could be any good.Otherwise ,you cant run the hyd pump dry,and will have to blank off the hole in the compressor......Fifth.....Take the inj pump off,take off the adaptor,and fix the broken stud.before you warp or break the injector pump body.Get it recoed if you have money to burn,otherwise leave it.

Also ,pull your gearbox apart while the motor is out.Its very common for the front roller bearing on the mainshaft to fail,This is the one inside the front gear...Assuming its a 4 sp.

A lot of trucks had air boosted brakes with a little single cylinder compressor, Im thinking the likes of Bedfords and D series Fords and most likely Inters and Dodges
And the air assisted booster was mounted on the chassis rail, these werent fool proof

Other options is of course the vacuum booster and a alternator of a Jap truck or 4x4 with the vacuum pump n the back
Hundreds of thousands of these are about so should be easy to get and cheap as well
Would be surprised if you couldnt get a double triple pully for the motor off some industrial thing

Paul

Its hard to get around the orig compressor mounted on the block.If you were local/brisbane,I could show you a dozen options ,including new Airpac brake boosters ex D Fords.And little 1 cyl Clayton compressors from D Fords petrols.The orig Perk compressor is driven at crank speed and is also very noisy.But unless you can find an industrial/tractor motor,alt bits are hard to find.As is your pump adaptor......its different from the DPA mount on the earlier motor,the drive spline is larger as is the adaptor bore.Not interchangeable.The wormwheel drive is also hydraulically loaded (perkins term) and so there is oil pressure under the pump,hence leaks.Mostl jap alt/vac pumps are 24v,making that option problematic.Ive got multigroove front pulleys,but again the late motors had a viscous damper which isnt interchangeable with the early rubber one.Even the crank spline may be different,I dont remeber.

Jap alternators on land cruisers pissan nissans patrols and the like are 12 volt with a vac pump

I have a couple of vacuum pumps that fit to the Perkins, one leaks oil and the other I'm not sure about. I'd like to get away from the single system hydraulics with a twin master, so the VH40 remote booster in the shed isn't of much use.

The turbo engine also came with a compressor, which in turn has a power steering pump mounted on the back.
I have thought having air on tap might be handy sometimes. A good excuse to have a train horn fitted but I wasn't keen on the parasitic loss & extra complexity, though I hadn't considered noise. I wasn't keen to try anything air over hydraulic but I suppose there are a lot of Japanese trucks that have such a setup.

Power steer is on the cards because the steering box is a bit sad. With a hydraulic pump available I was thinking a hydraulic assisted master would be a simple addition as I have heard the yanks commonly use 1 1/8th master cylinders.

The gearbox is a t34 overdrive unit and it's a bit special. I seldom use first gear but it sometimes stays in first when you shift the lever back to neutral. Second and Third will quite often baulk at the gate. If it won't pick up 2nd when you're stationary, the most reliable way to get going is to roll the truck forward or back on a slope or with a slip of the clutch in 4th. I try to pick up 2nd when it's just rolling to a stop at the lights normally. There's no noises from it aside from a 'snick' if you try shifting too rapidly with a few revs on.

I've talked to the friendly local truck wrecker and he's going to have a look for a new adaptor plate. Interesting that they are fed with oil that would certainly explain the leak.

better get on with it.

Cheers

The gears below the pump are spray lubed. The manual makes a note that a leaking 'o' ring on the adapter plate is common in service and that a "joint" be fitted between the plate and the block. I'm guessing this refers to a gasket. The manual does give a part number for it.

Your gearbox jamming problem was common on the pre 1971 boxes,was cured mid 71 by a completely redesigned top.The bit you need to look at is the pivot for the "finger " that selects 1st/R.The pivot must be tight ,its best to make up a special bolt,and eliminate all the slop.This cures the jamming for a while. until a bit of wear sets in.......The later top is easily recognized by a spacer between the change and the top casting.Its different inside though,including a longer gearstick and the finger is eliminated.You need the whole top as an assy.Once a very hard to find part.Ive had boxes that jammed between 1/R and had to have the top taken off to correct.Always happens at the worst possible time.