1965 F250’s Rejuvenation

8x5 Urchy?

When I get around to cutting up my M type Bedford chassis it will have to fit in my 6x4 trailer - along with other scrap metal???

I have various pieces to remove from it first, so that should make it easy enough.

PDU, sounds like you have me covered, I’ll have to increase my trailer game. Haha.

Well, paint did go on the next day and the one after that but it took ages to set hard and stop being tacky. I went 3 coats of black then 4 coats of clear. It was far from a brilliant job but it just needs to be functional for this old rig. The multi purpose spray booth did the trick.



Reinstalled the steering wheel today. Such an improvement when compared to day 1. Feels like another milestone has been achieved.



Other than the above, I’ve chased out horn cables for a while to realise they have bypassed the steering wheel button and just used a button on the dash. Found the relay was cactus in the process but as it was an odd style I’ve changed the plug and installed a modern style relay.

School holidays have slowed progress up, hope to spend a bit of tomorrow chipping away at it too. Fingers are crossed.

Couldn't be bothered seperating the front axle from the brakes Urchy so it was just the chassis rails - which I was going to do in two pieces until it came time to lift it onto the trailer (unaided per usual :ohmy:). Consequently I chopped one piece again after which it fitted on the 6 x 4 trailer easily. Minor detail no wheels, but they and the front axle could have gone on there underneath the chassis rails had I not been somewhat lethargic . . .


Your cab looks quite schmick in there with the "new" wheel. Nice job.

Cheers PDU, it’s well and truly coming together now.

Good job on the steering wheel urchy87 I did a similar job on mine as well.
Is the truck registered yet?
Pierre

Thanks Pierre, not yet unfortunately. Still a couple tidy up jobs to finish off. Ended up going away for some of the school holidays so that pulled the handbrake up on me.

I have bolted the tray down since the last post so minor progress has been complete.

Hoping for Feb or March to be on the road. That will be 2.5 yrs or so in the making, seems like only yesterday I was cleaning it out for the first time. Haha. How time flies!!

Finally got back into the to do list.

All the cables under the tray are now sorted, accelerator pedal reinstalled, aligned the bonnet a touch better, tightened up the links on the wipers as they were loose and installed new glass setting tape on the drivers side quarter glass to keep it in place. See the link below on that if you’re interested, his method worked really well. Fingers crossed the link works.



Have given it a test drive for about 25 mins. At full temp on idle oil pressure sat around 20psi and 40psi around 2500rpm, read into that a bit and they say that’s quite normal for the Ford 300’s. Was surprisingly comfortable to be in. A couple concerning things are the RPM required for highway speed and knowing the engine knock is there. 2500rpm had me at 75kph. It will take just over 3000rpm according to driveline calculations to do 100kph so diff gears have been bumped up the priority list. I plan on using this a bit so that needs to be sorted even for some potential fuel economy. The clutch slipped a bit in 4th gear but didn’t notice it in other gears (that could be a headache, might need to get the tunnel cover off and that requires the interior out too). Hope it will get through the roadworthy with the current clutch as the engine will be swapped before too long and I’d prefer to just do it all at once. It’s still smokey but I guess 25mins isn’t much of a trip, will see how that plays out. The last thing is lifters x 2 issues, one is ticking and I can’t track it down (wishing I’d got around to getting that stethoscope) and not all of them are getting oil through the pushrod. With the no oil through some pushrods should I be concerned?? Photo of that situation below. Cheers all.

I would be concerned about lack of oil to some rockers. But if tge engine is off to China soon then let it blow.

I think the main reason for push rods to be hollow is to reduced reciprocal weight.

From the Ford 300 Website.

Nearly all push rods are hollow to reduce reciprocal weight. Solid push rods are not unusual in older engines. They do not have oil flowing through them as the primary lubrication system. They rely upon top oiling from the rocker arm lubrication and bottom oiling from the cam lubrication system and oil running down the outside of rod from above. There is so much oil and mist floating around under the rocker cover that lubrication at even minimal pressures is more than adequate (unlike the major engine bearings and bushes).

Some engines like the Ford small block do have oil through the rod circulation.

Hello Urchy,
Did you get around to adjusting valve clearance with motor idling as per my earlier post.
Good progress, David.