They were fine thread, but having someone screw coarse thread bolts into them probably changed every thing.
And one seems to be a short hole, this might test my R.A.G. skills..... it's gonna take a long tap handle to get near the problem.
I might be having a small win, three of the stud/bolt holes have cleaned up OK, not sure of the size but I have 2 bolts to fit, I think 5/8th and not a fine thread. The push bolts were fine thread 3/4 inch. The 4th hole has been got at with a large drill bit into I am guessing a broken stud, there is a small hole a bit further in. I have no doubt 3 bolts will probably do the trick, however is it worth running a helicoil or something into the hole for a bit more grab?
I have the parts book, the only studs pictured in the whole book with out size and pitch.... these bloody taper studs.
And do I try and get studs rather than use bolts????
At least itsounds as if your winning so that is a bonus. You mentioned one hole is not as deep as the others. Is there a broken stud inside?
I too had an issue with thread identification on some tie rod ends on the David Brown Cropmaster. It has an unusual
19 tpi and pitch not BSF or Metric so left with no idea of what it is. No end in Oz will fit the taper o/a length and height or the thread. Even the reproduction parts are not a perfectmatch. They are around 5mm longer and the internal thread was not deep enough to allow you to wind the bloody thing on far enough to get your toe in right. The only solution was to cut the drag link down so it would screw on and give me the right adjustment.
Cheers Cobba & Cobbarette
Coopernook, The Centre of our Universe.
well, I finally went and had a crack, was very concerned about the weight of the wheel, I could not pull it upright and it was nearly upright to start with.
Packed the new bearing slipped on ok, a few whacks to seat it properly, applied the gasket stuff and fitted the replacement cover complete with seals, easy peasy.
Now to wobble the wheel somewhere near where it needed to be.... lots of pry baring and a ratchet strap to stop it falling on me or just flat on the ground. sheets of steel underneath for skidding on bit of wood to keep it near where I put it, need to lever it off the loader to an upright position, trouble using a bar and trying to fit a chock at the same time. Plan B back the Chamberlain up and ratchet the wheel upright.... done, wiggle and roll a bit and the dam thing is nearly there... find the jack (took 45 minutes çause I didnt put it away last time) Polish and oil the splines, axle and wedges, pump her up two inches, and spline and holes nearly line up, bit more pinch levering and the wheel rotates on the outside of the wedges until holes line up.... slap a bolt in..... or three (number 4 hole is knackered so I will go with three and pray.) I had to use yet another ratchet strap to pull the wheel onto the axle & wedges, a jab with a crow bar sent it home. Not sure but think the wedges are 100% home but wheel only 95%... see last photo.
Great stuff Sarge it’s great when something you’ve been worrying about thinking it’s going to be a bitch of a job goes well and easier than anticipated
As far as the wheel not being right home on the axle if you slacken off the clamp bolts a little and when you get it fired up sneak around a bit then see if the bolt in the centre of the axle will pull it in the last bit then if it does tighten the wedges up as tight as you can
Hopefully now you will be able to park that bloody wheelbarrow and navvie shovel and shift stuff the easy way
To quote Cobbadog:-
"I too had an issue with thread identification on some tie rod ends on the David Brown Cropmaster. It has an unusual
19 tpi and pitch not BSF or Metric so left with no idea of what it is. No end in Oz will fit the taper o/a length and height or the thread."
Boy! Wish I had a quid for every time I have run across the same problem! And not only SAE/BSF but even some Metric.
Jeep steering linkages, at least some of the early ones, had their own special size tie rod ends with corresponding thread counts that through bitter experience, ended up in busted knuckles, broken and/or stripped threads, make you tear your hair out!
And some of these modern qualified mechanics (I'm not one of them,nor pretend to be, qualified in any way!) are totally ignorant.
When I was rebuilding the Karrier Project, (Near MOSTLY BSF as you may expect from a typical British Lorry) wherever I could drill out an existing chassis bolt for example, I'd go from say 5/16 BSF up to 3/8 SAE (AF)., but quite often you couldn't do a replacement, and as BSF, although still around, are getting harder to get all the time.
And what do they do? When the Rootes Group got tied up with Simca (French) they must have decided, just to keep everybody on their toes, to get quite a bit of tooling done by the Frogs. So, add a bit of Metric, but NOT std 1.0/1.5/2.0, NO, some half bred in between "Automotive"thing that was unrecognizable.
All I'm saying is that thread sizes, pitches, grades are a bloody nightmare for the unititiated.
I quite often read, or hear, of someone doing a rebuild, or a repair of especially older gear, left scratching their heads with "What the bloody Hell is this bolt/nut??"
They told us many years ago that METRICS would be the universal standard and alleviate a lot of these types of problems, but just like currency, everybody ran, and still does run their own race.
Certainly a trap for young (and at times not so young) players
My vent my spleen for the day!