Late 354 Perk.

Could well have been Swish man

Same looking orange jigger with a orange minion riding shot gun



Paul

Made some progress.

Fabricated a decent timing pointer and a reasonable bolt adaptor for the front pulley so I can turn it over with a bar.

Stuck #1 intake valve open with a 3/8" allen key so it would act as a piston stop. Marked up the pulley and found the half way point, which is now engraved as TDC.

Next trick is to work out how many degrees of crank rotation is needed to get •125“ BTDC... that's the timing mark.

So most of the valve adjusters needed a quarter or half a turn to get back to spec... but the loosest one, I actually measured it to find it was •042" so I'm glad I've been through them...

I'm not sure if I should be worried about camshaft wear..?

If you ve had the head off,might be a thicker gasket........although IMHO the late Perks have stupidly strong valve springs,for no reason that I can see,as the early motors with weak springs would hit 4000rpm and survive.....I used to hate the series 4 s,expensive parts,all sorts of problems,and worst of all a pathetic fuel lift pump hidden in behind the turbo........I reckon the later Perks were designed by a spy from John Deere.

I'm too tired to retype the whole explanation so forgive me for cut 'n paste here...

Who knows anything about VE Bosch injection pumps fitted to a turbo Perkins?

Is it possible that a certified card carrying factory trained expert can assemble an injection pump that is timed to be around 26(?) degrees retarded?

Truck was running fine, but leaking fuel, so I spent all the money on pump & injector overhaul. Now it's almost impossible to start and issues clouds of white smoke at low speed.

I've been right through the timing process, gear train is all correct. 1mm pump stroke at •125“ (16deg) BTDC is the spec. Seems it's massively retarded though...

Try advancing the timing using the slots in the drive gear to test your theory..............

So the pump people agreed that I've done all the checks they would recommend. So they've checked the pump and it's all correct...

Dropped it back into the engine and when it's on the 16deg BTDC timing mark I can't get any more than •05mm pump lift with the both the adjustments maxxed out.

At TDC the pump lifts to 1•2mm, so I can achive the 1mm specified, but again it needs both the pump body and the quill shaft drive adjustment to be fully advanced.

I wondered if the drive shaft under the pump was a tooth out, but the marks there line up at TDC as per the book...

I guess I'll have to see if I can get it running and take the pump people up on their offer to diagnose the whole vehicle.

I assume you have made sure the damper marks are correct by checking piston travel.Not uncommon for rubber dampers to turn on the innerhub..There is a lot of backlash in the pump drive too,at least a full turn to get the lash out......I removed and replaced lots of these pumps when the low sulfur diesel leaks fiasco was on...............but I was very careful to turn the motor to a position where the was no spring load trying to turn the pump.The pumps would then just drop in........I do know the VE pumps are very prone to wear related problems,they have lots of tiny springs and levers inside ..".to reduce emissions"....according to Perkins.

AWDiesel in Adelaide helpfully advised the use an intake valve "jammed open" with a 3/8th Allen key to act as a piston stop... so I've marked the balancer both sides of TDC & divided them to make my own mark.

Then I measured the circumference to establish it's 640mm(?) or about 1.75mm per degree to measure where to put a 16deg BTDC mark.

These make sense when compared to the factory index groves in the pump drive shaft and adaptor plate.

Pump is master splined so it only fits one way.

The only experiment I have to try now is lifting the pump drive shaft and turning it a tooth.

I wonder if the internal pump parts differ between four, six or eight cylinder engines... perhaps some of the new components aren't actually correct?

Special service tool MS67b(?) let's you mark the pump body with the correct timing mark... which the pump shop has failed to do.

Use a cheap plastic protractor to measure out your crank degree settings. Just cut the centre out so you can stick it onto the pulley, and scribe the degrees required out to the balancer edge.